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Post by biggles on Dec 23, 2021 17:23:35 GMT
Hello all,
I must confess to glancing at the occasional classic car advert recently - you know how it is, so many cars, so little space. But I only have the one garage and it's entirely filled with Biggles, my leaf green 1.5 . So I've decided what I need to do is fall in love with him again and plan a road trip in the spring.
So whilst he is running fine I thought I would tackle a few of those niggly jobs that I know need doing and I'd start by asking for guidance (and encouragement) on here.
The first thing is that the temperature gauge doesn't work (and hasn't for ages). When I turn the ignition on the needle moves to the top (hot) end of the gauge and stays there.
Can someone give me a pointer on where to start with that?
regards
Simon
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Post by 2robert4 on Dec 23, 2021 21:22:30 GMT
As the gauge is going full scale there is a short somewhere on the wire from the sender unit to the gauge, that's good news as it shows the gauge circuit works correctly the not so good news is that you can follow the wiring to look for fretting etc. I will try and get a photo or a scan of the wiring diagram to help. Hope this info is of some help?
NP
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Post by canuck on Dec 23, 2021 21:25:02 GMT
Hello Simon, Long time no read. First bit of sleuthing you can do is to remove the wire from the sender at the cylinder head and touch it to earth, ignition switch to ON position. The dial should slowly rise to the full mark. If this is the case then have confidence the wiring and dial are behaving. As well if the case this reads as if your sender unit in the cylinder head is shorted to earth. Renewal is most likely in order. Pro tip; if you want to leave the ignition switch to ON position for a period of time remove the LT lead from the distributor to preserve the contact breaker. B
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kiwimc
Junior Member
Posts: 84
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Post by kiwimc on Dec 23, 2021 23:33:33 GMT
Definitely a useful tip from Bruce to NOT leave the ignition switch on. The coil can get very hot if the points are sitting in exactly the right (wrong) spot.
John
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kiwimc
Junior Member
Posts: 84
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Post by kiwimc on Dec 23, 2021 23:36:08 GMT
I ran out of petrol in my 1952 Fordson Major, didn't think to turn the ignition off. Came back with fresh fuel to find everything covered in a strange oil and pile of unidentified bits on the ground - the coil had exploded.
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Post by biggles on Jan 3, 2022 19:46:26 GMT
Excuse the obvious, but can I assume this is the sensor?
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Post by 2robert4 on Jan 3, 2022 20:49:53 GMT
You are correct, that is the temperature sensor screwed into the cylinder head and I think you will see that the wire connected to it runs into the harness that also holds the feed for the distributor amongst other things. Apologies for not providing you with a copy of the wiring diagram I must have put my Manual somewhere safe and can't find it for the moment. If you remove the wire from the sensor and the needle drops back on to its stop with the ignition on then the sender is faulty but I have had this happen to me only once it will be more likely that you have a wire chafed through somewhere.
Hope this info helps?
NP
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Post by biggles on Oct 13, 2022 15:33:11 GMT
Ok, I know this is a slow reply but I did that test today and have confirmed that the sender is faulty.
Now you can call me a cheapskate, but the only seller on Ebay showing one of these wants £23, which seems rather pricey since every other car seems to be about £8. Also, the one that is on Biggles has a beautiful brass knurled connector, but all of the replacements are spade connectors.
So, will I have to move to a spade connector? Is there a vehicle I could search with instead (MG Midget 1500 say) to get the same thing but cheaper?
I know about club spares but err, might not have membership atm.
Simon
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Post by canuck on Oct 13, 2022 17:51:08 GMT
Hello Simon, You are doing better than me. I wasn't even able to locate one over here. Let me ask; what range value are you searching for? I bought many before arriving at one that matched the unit in the instrument. I ended up making a 'jumper and using a plastic bolt & nut to join the car wire eyelet to the cylinder head sender. far from ideal and I am still searching a replacement. Bruce
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Post by biggles on Oct 27, 2022 18:49:01 GMT
Ok, the old sensor doesn't want to move. Is it more likely to move once the engine is warm and if so, would that present me with another problem?
S
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Post by canuck on Oct 31, 2022 21:17:59 GMT
Ok, the old sensor doesn't want to move. Is it more likely to move once the engine is warm and if so, would that present me with another problem? S the only thing that comes to mind is the cooling system will be under pressure, all be it 4 psi. Potentially being doused with hot coolant isn't on my wish list. I would apply PB Blaster or the like over a few days with wait in between. Heat cycle with a MAPP torch will help as well. To be sure heat the cylinder head not the sensor. Let us know how you make out Bruce
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