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Post by canuck on Jul 19, 2022 13:18:32 GMT
Hello Scott, Good job, you are now ready to roll. FWIW (and I recognize this is none of my business) but you may want to reverse the mounting of the fuel pump in the bracket? This orientation will allow you to install the support plate. This plate will mitigate the bend moment created by the mega heavy boot lid, through prop rod device on the boot aperture flange. salut B
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Post by ozriley on Jul 19, 2022 22:21:00 GMT
Thanks Bruce for that. I didn't know about that support plate which is missing from my car. Another part to track down. I assume (?) it is the same as fitted in a Wolseley 1500.
I see what you mean about turning the fuel pump bracket around now too.
Scott
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Post by Roger Holman on Aug 16, 2022 8:59:11 GMT
A quick observation from an RM Riley perspective.
The RM fuel tank does have a drain plug on the bootom, in the form of a large brass hex head nut. The inside of this nut is ''hollow' as in any brass pipe fitting. This hollow area forms the pick up location for fuel, but is surrounded by a fine mesh metal mesh filter, arranged in a tube, one end of the tube is soldered to the plug itself, the other end is soldered to a flat washer. The ID of the flat washer is such that it slides over the pick up pipe, which is copper or steel, and therfore rigid. The drainplug can thherefore be removed, complete with filter, for cleaning, if necessary, and replaced easily around the pick up pipe.
Possibly a modification worth considering, if the tank is on the bench.
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Post by tonyhosk on Aug 17, 2022 21:18:18 GMT
That's interesting as my 1962 Mk111 1.5 has exactly that set-up - I could never work out why my car did not appear to have the pick-up and filter as described above. It is quite a clever arrangement as the filter is easily withdrawn with the drain-plug and any debris then removed.
Tony
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Post by ozriley on Aug 19, 2022 8:15:57 GMT
A quick observation from an RM Riley perspective. The RM fuel tank does have a drain plug on the bootom, in the form of a large brass hex head nut. The inside of this nut is ''hollow' as in any brass pipe fitting. This hollow area forms the pick up location for fuel, but is surrounded by a fine mesh metal mesh filter, arranged in a tube, one end of the tube is soldered to the plug itself, the other end is soldered to a flat washer. The ID of the flat washer is such that it slides over the pick up pipe, which is copper or steel, and therfore rigid. The drainplug can thherefore be removed, complete with filter, for cleaning, if necessary, and replaced easily around the pick up pipe. Possibly a modification worth considering, if the tank is on the bench. Thanks Roger. I had a talk to a local MG guy I know and the only similar filter in the tank he knew of with MGs was at the bottom of the TC tank. He mentioned the BMC MGs don't have that type of filter but looking online it appears they do but aren't serviceable (like mine). You can see them in these MG B tanks- www.youtube.com/watch?v=jm44xD646N4 The odd thing with my car being that the varnish/rust were only in the tank, not in the fuel lines or filters ahead of the tank. The blockage was within the pick-up pipe, not the filter itself. My guess is that the blockage occurred due to the car having stood idle for many years and the fuel going off. I'm planning on using my car when finished so hopefully it won't happen again but if it does I may consider it. If I come across another fuel tank from a locally built Morris Major Elite or Austin Lancer I may go down that path. Scott
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kiwimc
Junior Member
Posts: 84
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Post by kiwimc on Aug 20, 2022 0:20:12 GMT
My Wolseley 6/90 has the same filter in drain plug arrangement, so presumably too the Pathfinder and 2.6.
A warning here: when I unscrewed mine it was destroyed by a rough (hacksaw slash cut??) finish on the end of the pick-up pipe that was applying firm sideways pressure, i.e. pinching the delicate mesh between the rough slash cut and the female thread of the tank. A second plug removed from a spares tank had also been destroyed presumably in previous removal. I can't see how I could have removed it without damage except by loosening somehow the pick-up pipe so that it wasn't applying that sideways pressure.
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Post by Roger Holman on Aug 22, 2022 7:43:24 GMT
I think that this filter might come under the category of 'expendable' these days. I know that, having got mine out, it was comaratively eassy to manufcature a replacement; a piece of wire mesh cut to size, with a double hook on the eds to facilitate soldering the joint, a correct sized washer to fit the top, around the pick up pipe, and a good sized soldering iron, or a very small gas torck. Making the thing takes about 5 minutes, working out the sizes of the costituent parts takes half an hour, worrying about it takes half a night!
The current habit of strainer manufacturers of buiding the things out of plastic is possibly not a good idea, if the plastic breaks down the strainer becomes ineffective, at least with a metal strainer the parts can be removed, and even if the solder has secumbed to ethanol, it can be repaired. When I made the one for DAG I also made a spare, not sure if it will ever be used, but I know I have it, somewhere!
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Post by ozriley on Aug 22, 2022 11:06:30 GMT
I think that this filter might come under the category of 'expendable' these days. I know that, having got mine out, it was comaratively eassy to manufcature a replacement; a piece of wire mesh cut to size, with a double hook on the eds to facilitate soldering the joint, a correct sized washer to fit the top, around the pick up pipe, and a good sized soldering iron, or a very small gas torck. Making the thing takes about 5 minutes, working out the sizes of the costituent parts takes half an hour, worrying about it takes half a night! The current habit of strainer manufacturers of buiding the things out of plastic is possibly not a good idea, if the plastic breaks down the strainer becomes ineffective, at least with a metal strainer the parts can be removed, and even if the solder has secumbed to ethanol, it can be repaired. When I made the one for DAG I also made a spare, not sure if it will ever be used, but I know I have it, somewhere! Looking at the design it would have been much better to make the pick-up tube removable from the tank. Hindsight Another question if I may on the braking system? The front wheel cylinders mount onto the backing plate with a thin paper gasket. Is it necessary to replace them when overhauling the wheel cylinders or leave them out? They seem to stick very well to the cylinder and backing plate and I'm not sure of their purpose. My Dad suggested they kept water out but I've not noticed them being used on other cars I've worked on over the years. Any thoughts? Scott
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Post by canuck on Aug 22, 2022 16:16:58 GMT
The front wheel cylinders mount onto the backing plate with a thin paper gasket. Is it necessary to replace them when overhauling the wheel cylinders or leave them out? They seem to stick very well to the cylinder and backing plate and I'm not sure of their purpose. My Dad suggested they kept water out but I've not noticed them being used on other cars I've worked on over the years. Any thoughts? Scott Hello Scott, I have not encountered these 'paper gasket' you describe. The factory parts list does not call these up either. Curious for sure Bruce
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Post by ozriley on Aug 24, 2022 11:14:34 GMT
Hi Bruce, Attached some images of the gasket. It was fitted to the front wheel cylinder with remains of one visible at the rear wheel cylinder. If they aren't in the parts list I'm not going to bother making them- I can't see that they serve any purpose. Thanks for posting the image from the parts book. I'm replacing the steel line (48 in the diagram) and in your diagram it looks to run underneath the stub axle, whereas on mine it runs up over it which I think is correct as it would protect it more. Scott Attachments:
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Post by 2robert4 on Aug 24, 2022 16:24:04 GMT
Hi Scott
These gaskets were supplied with the wheel cylinder by the manufacturer and were only supplied in a genuine Girling replacements. The gasket is supposed to stop debris/water entering from outside and contaminating the linings causing the brake to pull to one side or the other. You very rarely if ever see these gaskets now, even Unipart Cylinders do not come with them them. The good news is that your brake hydraulics are still factory fit and you can make them if you see fit.
Hope this info helps?
NP
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Post by ozriley on Aug 25, 2022 11:40:59 GMT
These gaskets were supplied with the wheel cylinder by the manufacturer and were only supplied in a genuine Girling replacements. The gasket is supposed to stop debris/water entering from outside and contaminating the linings causing the brake to pull to one side or the other. You very rarely if ever see these gaskets now, even Unipart Cylinders do not come with them them. The good news is that your brake hydraulics are still factory fit and you can make them if you see fit. Ok. That does make some sense. Certainly the wheel cylinders have not been changed, only overhauled, since the early 1990s and prior to that the car had been sitting around for a long while. They may be original or if they have been replaced it may well have been when genuine Girling parts were available. Scott
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Post by canuck on Aug 25, 2022 13:48:25 GMT
Interesting detail Nigel, thanks for this. I suppose these paper gaskets could act as a barrier for the dissimilar metals of the brake slave cylinder and backing plate as well? If desired, these don't look particularly difficult to reproduce if one has hole punches. Bruce
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