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Post by canuck on Aug 7, 2022 15:18:59 GMT
OK so a little more progress on my front bump stops. I found an eBay breaker in Blighty that was willing to part with the two front bump stops off of a MK III car. These are shorter by 1/2" so I needed these to match the already lowered rear end. With the generous help of a forum member I was able to get these into my Canadian garage this week. Thanks again Rob. As it turned out the seller wasn't aware of what he had and when the bump stops arrived in the post one was a MK I and the other a MK III. Following a short think and a cup of tea I decided instead of continuing my search for another and elusive MK III bump stop I will modify the MK I bump stop. Quite remarkable what a couple of minutes on the bench grinder can achieve. I am rather chuffed at the result and I will install this as a runner. salut Bruce
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Post by tonyhosk on Aug 7, 2022 20:40:27 GMT
Hi Bruce
I have only managed to get the MM versions, which I suspect are longer than the Mk111 versions shown in your photos as well as being slightly bent. Would you be kind enough when the bump stops are in front of you to measure the length of the Mk111 one - I will ready my bench grinder for battle.
Many thanks
Tony
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Post by canuck on Aug 8, 2022 18:44:23 GMT
Would you be kind enough when the bump stops are in front of you to measure the length of the Mk111 one - I will ready my bench grinder for battle. Hello Tony The MK III bump stop that looks in decent enough condition measures 58mm from plate to peak of rubber. My bespoke one measures 60mm so close enough I should think. FWIW be gentle on the bench grinder wheel, you will be surprised at how easy the rubber is removed. Keep the piece rotating/moving as well, you don't want flat spots. I smooth finished the shape with a wood sanding block and 50 grit paper. Keep well Bruce
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Post by tonyhosk on Aug 9, 2022 21:17:19 GMT
Many thanks Bruce - advice noted!! Your digital gauge puts mine to shame - I shall have to clean it.
The weldathon is finally completed - basically the whole bottom foot of the entire car as well as numerous floor and inner wing fabrications and repairs. Ended up using three different right front wings to make one good one! I've now completed priming, guide coasting, blocking, priming, guide coating, bio........ etc and soon off to a pro for the paint. If I can reduce my iPhone images drastically I'll post a few shots over the next day or two.
Tony
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Post by tonyhosk on Aug 10, 2022 21:19:22 GMT
Hi again Bruce
I measured the MM bump stops and they are actually 58mm in length! They are still a bit tilted so I'll see how they look against the upper trunnion when I refit the front suspension.
Tony
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Post by canuck on Aug 11, 2022 0:22:31 GMT
I measured the MM bump stops and they are actually 58mm in length! They are still a bit tilted so I'll see how they look against the upper trunnion when I refit the front suspension. Tony Hello Tony, Umm, interesting, and this reads like good news? When I first looked into the MM option I think these bump stops were handed? Not sure as I didn't pursue them. Perhaps a canted shim will be needed? As to your comment; "Your digital gauge puts mine to shame" my Mum always reminded me be careful what I ask for. You notice my photo shows the battery cover is not on and the battery is exposed. This stupid device will drain the battery in a timeframe of a few weeks if I leave the battery in it. So I leave off the cover, and remove the battery after each use. Three years later still on the same battery. Cheap tools are not a particularly good idea I guess. however it is reasonably accurate for checking most things. Bruce
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kiwimc
Junior Member
Posts: 84
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Post by kiwimc on Aug 11, 2022 10:48:33 GMT
Mine is the same! Presumably if we had spent 10x as much and bought the Mitutoyo we wouldn't have to.
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Post by ozieagle on Aug 12, 2022 20:43:34 GMT
Hi Guys,
A thing I just thought of, have you reindexed the shock absorber arms, on their splined shafts, to reposition the arms at midpoint of the internal pistons? Lowering the car would bias the internals to one end and may actually "bottom' out.
Herb
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Post by tonyhosk on Aug 12, 2022 21:11:44 GMT
I too have learnt to remove the battery after each use, otherwise runs out in no time.
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Post by canuck on Aug 13, 2022 20:06:39 GMT
A thing I just thought of, have you reindexed the shock absorber arms, on their splined shafts, to reposition the arms at midpoint of the internal pistons? Lowering the car would bias the internals to one end and may actually "bottom' out. Herb Hello Herb Interesting query. Is this a requirement of the Wolseley marque? Do you have details to do this. I suspect the early/later Wolseley went through this same mod from factory? The lowering of the MK I Riley car is simply to meet MK II & III speciation, and from factory is a desirable modification to undertake. The MK I car is 'rolly polly' (in the kindest way ) and needs help. Some of this process is enigmatic if one uses factory information, and in practice this plays out to be quite different. In the rear the lowering is afforded by the use of lowering blocks. The spring lower plate and the damper link are not physically affected, so no affect to the damper arm setting or length of link. Lowering at the front is a bit of a leap of faith? and is done by resetting the height of the lower suspension arm, according to factory specification. To date I have trusted the the engineering lads & lassies at Longbridge but ............ Where the mystery, at least to me, comes into play is the bump stops etc. My original thread on this exercise highlights my not paying close enough attention to this. The factory tells us that these bump stops are the same dimensions, (this speaks to your point ) but of a softer material. I was under the impression that the MK II & III bump stops were shorter. These bump stops carry a part number 21G prefix which indicates Riley specific. However buying MK III bump stops from a breaker, it is quite obvious a 1/2" reduced height (as I show above) for the Riley. It doesn't seem to be any softer and if I take the time/or able to measure the durometer # of this rubber stop I am sure I would find it to be harder. I think it important to keep this discussion going as we work through this modification of MK I cars. I have made some errors along my way but I think I have an ' engineered' path to follow of this now. Earlier on in this thread, I did modify my new rear bump stops both in height and compression. The height easily handled, but required drilling a hole to introduce a softer compression My solution and so far so good. The Riley Motor Club does have a model specific Technical adviser and I think would be interesting to have his ideas on this. I somehow can't believe I am the pioneer. With me not being in Blighty I truly appreciate this forum sharing ideas, Salut Bruce
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Post by ozieagle on Aug 13, 2022 21:00:05 GMT
Lowering at the front is a bit of a leap of faith? and is done by resetting the height of the lower suspension arm, according to factory specification. Attachments:
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Post by ozieagle on Aug 13, 2022 21:10:34 GMT
Dunno what happened, but all I wrote, in the previous post, has disappeared. I can't seem to be able to type anything into it, so here goes.
Changing the height of the suspension, by reindexing the torsion bar, will also change the position of the shocker, which may put the internal pistons near the end of their travel, with a possibility of hitting the ends of their their movement. Maybe try assembling the suspension, without the torsion bars, and check the motion freedom of the shockers.
In case you are unaware, the shocker arms are splined onto their shafts. You will need a press to remove them.
Herb
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Post by canuck on Aug 14, 2022 14:14:53 GMT
Hello Herb, Yes I more familiar with this front suspension than I would like to admit. The damper travel is one 'issue' perhaps? but no where have I read any need to re index the damper arm. Is this supposition? do you have experience for need to do this? The rear adjuster of the torsion bar on the Riley allow for generous adjustment. As well I have noticed that the swivel pin and upper/lower trunnions pretty much allow for this 1/2" height difference. The trunnion/swivel pin threads are rather coarse and these provide for a slight height difference while still allowing the upper and lower fulcrum pins to fit the waisted part of the swivel pins. Do note I pay attention to the stub axle height/position while adjusting the body height, all the while paying attention the specifications, (with a grain of salt ) provided in the WSM. These can end up at slightly different heights from side to side even without touching the torsion bar splines. If one abides by the WSM then tyre heights, (size or pressure) are a factor to adjust for. I may be overthinking this and I might be simply trying to get into the heads of those Engineers that designed this simple suspension back in the 30's. All good fun. Bruce
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Post by ozieagle on Aug 14, 2022 20:20:21 GMT
Hi Bruce, I don't have any experience with this, pure supposition. Assuming that one has the same tyres and pressures on the car, then they don't come into the adjustment procedure. The height is set by the difference between the two ends of the arm. I developed a simple gauge to measure this, see attached. Herb
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Post by canuck on Aug 15, 2022 12:41:59 GMT
I don't have any experience with this, pure supposition. Thanks Herb, Good enough for now. I will use the known variables before I delve into the dark blue yonder. I have installed my 'new' front bump stops and adjusted the height to factory specifications. I will drive around for a while experiencing the 'improvements'. While doing all this front end adjustment stuff, I did not reinstall the anti roll bar for the time being. Not sure the influence positive or negative this will have and will probably bolt it back on in a week or so once I am able to determine I am on the right track. I will miss it in the meantime. Salut B
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