Clutch not disengaging

[roy0147]

In my earlier post about dynamo problems I mentioned the clutch was not disengaging so I thought it best to open a new thread.
I have now been able to see that when the clutch pedal is depressed the slave cylinder operates on the clutch lever but this did not release the clutch.

Is there any way of releasing the clutch if it is seized on or is it a removal of engine job? I hope not!

Cheers,
Roy 

[canuck]

Roy

Perhaps your driven disc is rusted to the flywheel? 

If the case, and  I have never experienced this, have a read at link below, it may enlighten, or scare, depending on your sense of adventure. 

mossmotoring.com/free-seized-clutch-disc/

salut 

Bruce

[jA40]

Roy,

I've had this issue on other vehicles. If your battery is in good condition you can try putting the car in gear
& with foot FIRMLY on the brake pedal, try cranking the engine on the starter. Good luck.

Jeff

[kiwimc]

Love the sound of that Moss technique

[canuck]

Jun 22, 2022 10:21:09 GMT kiwimc said:

Love the sound of that Moss technique

Too funny and I agree    how would you like to be the chap on the hydraulic jack?   

I posted it as a thinking point, hence me writing, "enlighten, or scare, depending on your sense of adventure"  Doing this may work or may snap a axle half-shaft?  

I prefer Jeff technique. 


B

[deltalimamike]

I had this a few years back after not moving the car over winter and it being outside.

Jeff's way worked for me.

[roy0147]

Thanks for all of your bits of help. I am not too brave so I think it will be Jeff's way at first but, as I want to avoid the expense of an engine out, I may have to try the helta skelta route at some point!
Roy

[roy0147]

I can now report that I have been able to disengage my clutch.
I sort of followed Jeff's method with some further advice from the MGA Forum - I jacked the rear wheels off the ground, put it in gear and depressed the clutch pedal, started the car and the wheels were turning so I then pressed on the brake pedal (keeping the clutch depressed) and the engine nearly stalled so released the brake and repeated a few times until I got a bit of a bang and the clutch was free. 
I was able to run through all the gears with the still of the ground and all seems ok.
Tomorrow I will actually try it on the road.

[canuck]

Well done Roy. 

Let us know how the first drive worked out.

B

[roy0147]

I checked the brake shoe settings after using the brakes to free the clutch whilst in the air and then went for it!
The car ran quite well , the engine accelerated properly and revved freely so the carbs. must be nearly set ok. 
I changed gear up and down with no synchro. issues - which was a surprise.
As I am not used to old cars, the brakes were not as good as I hoped but they did pull it up in a straight line eventually. The shoes are new so perhaps will bed in a bit.
I cannot adjust the handbrake to do much and I cannot stop the wheels from turning even after adjusting the cables and pivots which are all free - is this to be expected?
Overall though I am very happy after all the troubles I have been through!
Roy

[jA40]

Hi Roy,

Depends how much of a purist you are. We compete in Historic Rallies and I found there was SO
much stretch in the cables as be useless. On events we often resort to the handbrake so I replaced the cables with
solid rods, made up by myself. A significant improvement!

Jeff.

p.s. expect the new shoes to 'bed in' once the high spots have worn away.

[canuck]

Bravo Roy,

The brakes of the Riley are quite good for drum system and are larger friction area that most contemporary vehicles.  One should be able to lock the wheels in stock fettle.  I think Jeff has hit the nail on the head, let the linings 'set' in. 

For the handbrake issue  I struggled a bit due to my unfamiliarity with the 'odd' set up of levers, cables etc.  In my particular case two things came into play. 
One, the handbrake actuating levers on the rear brake cylinders were flopping about. The pivot pin of the actuating lever had worn and the alloy castling pivot area of the brake cylinder had also worn. Not good. 


 
Two. the 'crazy' compensator on the axle casing was all gummed up and not working as it should .  The intermediate lever was a little wonky also. 



My remedy was to bite the bullet, crawl under the car and take the whole system to bits. Not so daunting, cleaned up and painted the bits , and I needed new actuating levers and cylinders at the rear brake plate. 



Re assembled everything, using new pins, lubed the joins  etc. and all was well in Camelot. 

Bruce

[2robert4]

I have a couple of tips over and above what Bruce has said regarding setting up the handbrake and the handbrake drop arm pivot on the transmission tunnel.

First, before carrying out the brake adjustment check the drop arm pivoting from the transmission tunnel this pivot has two split rubber bushes which brake up allowing the lever a lot of slop when they fall out. These to my knowledge are no longer available but if you get hold of a pair of rocker cover bushes these fit just right in the holes but the larger diameter of the bush requires trimming in half as it is too thick to fit the gap when both are in place. I used a junior hacksaw to cut the bush but there must be a myriad of other ways to accomplish this.


Second, the adjustment of linings can only be completed after a bedding in period of at least a 100 miles, Then de adjust the handbrake cable at the central adjuster remove each clevis pin holding the handbrake cable to the wheel cylinder (the idea behind this is to allow the brake adjusters to correctly adjust the shoes with out being partially held open by the handbrake arms) next, adjust the shoes until they can not go any further and back off one turn and try the drums. They should just rub slightly if not tap the drum with a hammer to centralise the shoes if they are still binding back off one more turn then connect the cable ends with the clevis pins and adjust the handbrake central adjuster until the shoes just lock up and back off until the drums just bind as per your setting with the cables off. This way of adjusting brakes was shown to me by a Girling rep in the midst's of time and applies to most old school rear brake systems and gives good results. Hope this info is of some help?

NP

[roy0147]

Thank you for all of these detailed tips. I have only worked on the rear compensator in isolation so I will now look at all the sections and in particular follow the brake shoe adjustment process with the handbrake disconnected once I have a few more miles on the clock.
Onwards and upwards with a minor water leak from the radiator, oil leaking from rocker cover and sump, some wiring behind the dash and a couple of other minor niggles - but at least I can get it out on the road at long last!

Regards,

Roy