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Post by canuck on Apr 10, 2022 20:02:27 GMT
@ Herb, no worries there is such a selection of hoses, ends, lengths etc. @ David, I appreciate you confirming the thread pitch. These flare nuts etc. appear to be a standard British-Girling fitting. store.fedhillusa.com/britishgirling-316475nutsandfittings.aspxhowever the female nut does confuse still. Time will tell. This installation may be easier for determining a proper hose length as the flex hose connects to the upright. The length will change very little as the wheel turns lock to lock. Salut B
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Post by canuck on Apr 20, 2022 12:59:44 GMT
OK so some Engineering updates on my conversion. We recall I need/want to modify the hub the accept a 4.5" PCD, and a 1/2" wheel stud. Prior to my purchase of the kit I did a bit of intel but as is often the case without having the bits on hand we never know for sure. Well as luck would have it Murphy has shown up in the shop. I re visited my notes and realize I need some changes to go forward. I exchanged emails with a chap in EU that has done this PCD change over. Due to language differences and interpretations I realize now that the OE Marina hub he was dealing with has an original PCD 0f 3.75" and his goal was to achieve the MM or Riley 4.0" PCD. Of course it looked straightforward to do but not at all the parameters to achieve my goal. What I find is this. The Mr. Grumpy hub provided in the kit looks good from the outer face, with 'plenty' of material to plug and drill new PCD. Umm perhaps not? However the reverse of the hub presented a different approach. To be continued ............... Bruce
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Post by canuck on Apr 20, 2022 13:12:31 GMT
Cont'd ............. The reverse of the hub casting, where the stud presses to has a cast in thickness that is only so generous. and will only allow so much 'reposition' of the stud to take advantage of the required thickness, for support and press of the wheel stud serrations. Now clearly evident I cannot use the larger diameter stud, (1/2" versus OE 3/8") due to lack of real estate in the casting. My next step is to validate if the original smaller diameter 3/8" wheel stud will play well with the wheel I am planning on using. My interest being the size of the stud holes in the preferred to use road wheel. I will be at my cars and the road wheels during the next days and let you let you know what I find out . salut Bruce
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Post by jonnyb on Jan 1, 2024 19:50:05 GMT
Any update on this Bruce?
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Post by canuck on Jan 2, 2024 15:10:44 GMT
Any update on this Bruce? Hello Jonathan, Well nice to read you survived yet another New Year celebration! all the best to you and yours for a best ever 2024! Yes I have moved on somewhat since tucking George away for his winter slumber. I completed the engineering to fit this kit to my car. I sourced a proper fitting brake hose compatible to the Riley. I removed the upright/spindle and drilled/tapped the lower boss to accept my bespoke stainless steel hydraulic hose/hardline bracket. I like the hose nut lock plate, # 1G9198 and used it on my hose connection. This lock plate secures the hose from unwinding and makes tightening the hardline union a breeze. The other bit of bother, although not so daunting, was to bend the hydraulic hardline supplied in the kit, from straight to pretzel. This is needed to clear the steering arm that is just above the bracket. I think this line is Copper/Nickel material so using a brake line bending tool, is quite easy to achieve an acceptable form and function fit. I show the installed kit below. My next session, hopefully in a couple of weeks, will be to bleed and fit the wheel adapters/spacers . Bruce
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Post by jonnyb on Jan 2, 2024 19:24:15 GMT
Good to know it is working out. Thanks for the update. All being well with the new engine and ARB fitment, on my car, front discs will soon be on my list.
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Post by canuck on Jan 6, 2024 16:28:08 GMT
Chaps, I think it necessary to post a caveat to this kit install. I didn't expect a modern kit of parts to fit a 60+ year old car without encountering some 'fun' . On my car I encountered an interference situation of the disc/rotor with the caliper casting that needed sorting. In my case the caliper ended up too far inward and interfered with the disc. (below) This interference was greater on the LH side than the RH side. The LH side measured 0.112" while the RH 0.060" interference fit. So either the upright/stub axle is different from one side to the other, suggesting the rotor/disc varies in its position. Perhaps the hubs differ, but with my measuring tools can't confirm. The caliper mounting plates, a welded assembly are different or the caliper casting mounting tab are different to each other, so maybe these are at play?. My uprights/spindles are OE so I trusted them. The new hubs use a modern inner and outer taper bearing and being a doubting Thomas, I thought perhaps the radii of the inner bearing and the axle weren't playing well together? thankfully not the case and this fit checked out 100%. I then used flat washers as spacers on the mounting bolts to move the caliper outboard. I was able to determine that the caliper mounting plates could be made the same by machining off the same amount of material, 0.060" in this case and machining off the delta of 0.052" from the LH caliper mounting. This proved to be the solution and all now fits as should, with no 'lazy engineering' washers/spacers required. salut Bruce
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Post by jonnyb on Jan 8, 2024 19:37:20 GMT
Very helpful info Bruce, thanks for posting.
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Post by canuck on Jan 10, 2024 13:19:40 GMT
To clarify the caveat, this brake conversion kit is a well made, all inclusive kit. I think the fix I undertook was required due to a simple accumulation of tolerances; caliper casting/machining, the mounting bracket fold/weld/machine and the hub/bearing machining. As I wrote I expected this and a retired engineer is not daunted. One particular nice feature is the use of Placeā¢ bolts for the disc to hub fasteners. An unexpected level of 'quality', and the proper application. if not familiar with this type fastener, have a read, wilsongarner.com/what-are-place-bolts-used-for/Other than a rattle can of Black paint to protect the hub casting and conceal the Yellow colour Zinc Chromate coating of the stone guard and brackets, this proved to be a 'plug n play' kit. Bruce
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Post by tonyhosk on Jan 10, 2024 22:55:01 GMT
Fascinating - I have never come across them before!!
Tony
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kiwimc
Junior Member
Posts: 84
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Post by kiwimc on Jan 13, 2024 20:53:40 GMT
Thanks Bruce.
Particularly interesting following the link in your link (https://wilsongarner.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/WG-AmericanFastenerJournal.pdf) to see the reasoning behind asymmetric head 'B' and 'BH'.
John
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