Timing chain cover

[casper171072]

I'm rebuilding my 1.5 engine I have the original timing chain cover but also have a later cover possibly mgb with the later proper oil seal rather than felt. I know the time chain marks are different so I would have to re mark the pully when I set the timing.i suppose the timing marks above are easier to use in future

Is the later cover a better option for a leak free engine even though I have to mess sbout a bit or are the originals with a new felt better

[canuck]

The proper 'modern' rubber lip oil seal is 'head and shoulders' above the OE felt type.  The felt tends to dry up if used infrequently. FWIW if you have ever refitted a felt seal it is a messy/bugg*r of a job.

If you have the crankshaft pulley that matches that timing chain cover then simply install it as well. Timing marks will align and the pulley is rubber damper.

Pay attention to the oil slinger, I believe these are different (felt versus rubber seal) and to ensure a good seal best to use the correct one for the seal type.

B

[casper171072]

Thanks for that I didn't know about the oil thrower being different. I have been told from an MG guy that the crank pulley changed sizes on mgb's and for one the same size as ours you need the earlier one which are hard to find. I'm not sure if that would make any difference other than finding a bigger fan belt

[canuck]

Apr 17, 2019 14:07:37 GMT casper171072 said:

Thanks for that I didn't know about the oil thrower being different. I have been told from an MG guy that the crank pulley changed sizes on mgb's and for one the same size as ours you need the earlier one which are hard to find. I'm not sure if that would make any difference other than finding a bigger fan belt

Let me have a go; 

The MG (1800 engine) used a rubber lip seal from the get go. Specific oil slinger.
This seal was inserted from the front/outside of the cover, used a 'damper' pulley and had timing marks below.  The damper pulley is same diameter as the OE metal/riveted crankshaft pulley.
Note as well this cover does not have the stamped stiffening 'corrugations' and is flat in the flange/bolt channel.



The next iteration installed the same lip oil seal from the inside, (probably like the cover you have) , specific oil slinger, and same damper pulley with timing marks below.



The next iteration used the same lip seal, on the inside, same oil slinger as previous cover, incorporated stamped stiffening 'corrugations' to the bolt channel, and moved the timing marks to the top. Same diameter damper. 

I believe the last iteration, RBB MG cars is the same cover, uses a slightly larger diameter damper pulley, and a specific oil slinger. 

So if you have the latest cover, then match the larger diameter damper/pulley to it. Keep in mind this will drive the dynamo and water pump at a different speed than intended, and as you mention require a longer drive belt. 

My brain is starting to hurt, does this make sense?

Bruce 

[casper171072]

Thanks for that Bruce. The cover I have is the later one with the marks on top and the larger damper. The earlier dampers I am led to believe from a couple of sources are getting hard to find so i will be left with finding a slightly larger fan belt. My car already has an alternator so i am hooping the difference in pulley size should be ok. The benefit being that I will be able to time the car in future from above with a timing light. Having said all of that as part of the rebuild I am using a slighter hotter piper road cam and the head has been subject of econotune spec mods by Peter Burgess so the timing could all be different and the timing marks irrelevant anyway :-)

[canuck]

May 9, 2019 14:19:06 GMT casper171072 said:

The cover I have is the later one with the marks on top and the larger damper. The earlier dampers I am led to believe from a couple of sources are getting hard to find so i will be left with finding a slightly larger fan belt. My car already has an alternator so i am hooping the difference in pulley size should be ok. The benefit being that I will be able to time the car in future from above with a timing light. Having said all of that as part of the rebuild I am using a slighter hotter piper road cam and the head has been subject of econotune spec mods by Peter Burgess so the timing could all be different and the timing marks irrelevant anyway :-)

So;

Pay attention to what pulley (s) are used to align the drive belt. There is four different types to match particular water pumps nose lengths.  (below) 



Unfortunately or fortunately this lower pulley is what dictates the alignment for the alternator/dynamo and water pump.  If you plan on using the mechanical cooling fan be aware that this later water pump pulley,(RH one in photo) did not accept a cooling fan.  The late MGB had dual electric fans fitted. 

I have struggled to find a suitable water pump to fit, (alignment issues)  the Riley engine bay for my 1800 3 main engine.  I think my only solution will be a 3 main MGB water pump with matching pulley and then move the radiator forward for clearance of the cooling fan. 

Your timing specs will remain pretty much the same, if you use the earlier duplex gears.  I have a a Burgess head and no theatrics are needed to put it into action.  

Back to you
Bruce