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Post by biggles on Dec 29, 2015 16:19:40 GMT
I've finally decided to take the plunge and decided to tackle the bubbles on the wing. This wing has always looked slightly wonky, suggesting it had been removed before and so I've spent the afternoon taking it off again.  I wasn't mistaken as there was a spot weld at the leading edge that caused a fair bit of cursing. My word there's a lot of crud back there when you dare to take a look. The inside of the wing itself looks pretty sound but I'll reserve judgement until I've got the paint off the affected areas. I've not done this before so hopefully you'll bear with me as I expect there'll be questions. Simon |
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Post by deltalimamike on Dec 29, 2015 16:51:55 GMT
I wish mine looked half as good as that!
Fair play for giving it a go I shall watch with interest.
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Post by canuck on Dec 30, 2015 20:49:44 GMT
Simon, Good stuff. What I see looks good and with so few tools in the picture I am impressed.  FWIW I would not worry, I do not think panel alignment was a particular strong point on the Riley  and what I see I like, no corrosion visible. The spot weld you mention leads me to believe the wing has not been removed previously, and I think this weld was done at Longbridge. Was it adjacent to the drain hole in the front panel flange? I ended up drilling through this spot weld in order to remove my wing. Was there a flat 'stiff paper' gasket along the vertical bolt flange at the A post fasteners? #92 and on the horizontal flange at engine bay #91? I was not able to save the gaskets when I removed the wing so I put sealant on these bolts when I reinstalled the wing. These would perhaps be another clue as to the original wing?
The picture below is from a few years ago when I performed a 'quickie' sill repair to get me through a roadworthiness inspection.
The most difficult part of this wing removal for me was access to the top fastener from inside. I used a funky combination of extensions and universal joints sockets etc.. Access to the fasteners around the front panel near the headlamp was not easy as well if memory serves. Over the winter I am going to redo this wing off exercise as my sills are now terminal from 'tinworm' activity. Let us know how you make out.
Bruce |
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Post by biggles on Dec 30, 2015 21:16:47 GMT
Was it adjacent to the drain hole in the front panel flange?
Yes, that's exactly where it was Was there a flat 'stiff paper' gasket along the vertical bolt flange at the A post fasteners? #92 and on the horizontal flange at engine bay #91? I was not able to save the gaskets when I removed the wing so I put sealant on these bolts when I reinstalled the wing. These would perhaps be another clue as to the original wing?
Again yes - the horizontal one is all but gone, but the vertical one on the A post is pretty much intact. If we're talking about the same thing it's like a very thick black tape, about an inch wide (probably 1-2mm thick).
The screws (more like threaded bolts) all came off easily and with a minimum of cursing. It was only really that spot weld that caused me problems. There was a fair bit of sealant around that weld too - which made me think it was an afterthought.
So if you don't mind - a question about what to do with the inner wing. At the moment there is a grey 'dust' covering it. Should I scrape this back and then treat the whole area with something? Would there have been some sort of coating from the factory?
Simon
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Post by canuck on Dec 30, 2015 21:43:49 GMT
Simon, Yes we are speaking of the same 'gasket' I guess the ones on my car were dried out hence me thinking they were some sort of 'stiff paper' gasket. I thank you for clearing up the material type of this 'gasket', I now know what to look for when I go back in there over the winter and reinstall the wing. I think the factory must have put some sort of undercoating on this area. In fact in your photo the uneven surface dictates this, no? If this is well stuck, just leave as is. What you see in my photo is a paint called POR, (= paint over rust) in this case Black in colour. I wire brushed what was there and painted the POR on the inner wing, the flange and the 'triangular' shape bump stop. This POR is not cheap however appears to have worn well. If you use this type of paint, wear gloves, it is the devil to remove from skin. I will need to perform 'surgery' on at least on of the bump stop, along with letting in a new bit of metal on the inner flitch panel. The 'tinworm' had a snack here as well. I bought replacement panels form club spares, and feel confident they will fit well.
Keep at it.
Bruce |
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Post by biggles on Dec 30, 2015 22:34:19 GMT
Just to add, I'm thinking of using this product on the inner arches - probably similar to your POR - and also on the suspension parts which I plan to refurb whilst it's all accessible. www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic-rust-proofing-paint/c28117/Unless of course you all shout - nooooooo! very loudly..  Simon |
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Post by noddy on Dec 31, 2015 7:15:59 GMT
Simon, I've used POR on exactly the same spot on my car. It still looks like it went on yesterday - not 5 years ago. As Bruce says, it is expensive, but worth every penny. www.frost.co.uk/por15-rust-prevention-paint-473ml.htmlI'm impressed how straight and clean your car looks under there - I've seen some real horror shows before. Cheers, Roger |
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Post by rgswisstex on Dec 31, 2015 16:43:24 GMT
Hi guys, when I restored my Riley, I took the front end off first and I had to drill out one spot weld on each side in the same location that you mentioned, which to me indicates that this was done at the factory. I made gaskets to go under the fender flanges; I used .062” thick neoprene rubber strips 1” wide.
Also I never use POR, after I blast down to metal, I coat everything with OSPHO, (Phosphoric Acid) which stops the corrosion process and then I paint it with Epoxy Primer before I do the finish paint, this will ensure that it will never rust again, specially here in Texas with minimal rainfall and lots of sun, that is good for the car, any car.
When I was still working, I had a project to design and build pressure chambers that went in the Ocean for 25 years and we used the coating system I just mentioned and that was about 12 years ago, these chambers are still under water and doing fine.
Take your time and do it right.
Happy New Year to all.
Rolf
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Post by biggles on Dec 31, 2015 20:02:37 GMT
Hi Rolf,
wow what a difference, especially useful to see the before and after photos.. feeling inspired.
Simon
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Post by canuck on Dec 31, 2015 21:09:57 GMT
Nice job Rolf, I am jealous for sure as my car will never receive that sort of treatment from me. and now I understand how you got those tires to fit. 
@ Simon, I did not use POR on the suspension bits. I chose to use engine enamel on the suspension bits. A good portion of the front suspension is cast iron so I thought, good enough for an engine block, why not? It has shown to be very durable and it has stuck well. Your car your choice.
At the risk of bursting someone's bubble, this area will only look nice once. Not so many miles later it will be just as it was, (but rust inhibited hopefully).
Bruce
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Post by biggles on Jan 1, 2016 17:31:23 GMT
Hi All, I did some scraping off of the crud this afternoon which was supremely satisfying. There is a golden tinge to most of the inner wing / bump stop but no holes or damage.  I have removed some of the 'gasket' - part 92 on Bruce's diagram.  It appears to be made of rubber and I can confirm Rolf's measurement of 1" wide. Rolf, did you cut these yourself or were you able to buy the neoprene on a roll? I have questions about the front suspension but will start a separate thread I think. Simon |
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Post by canuck on Jan 2, 2016 14:29:16 GMT
Simon, The condition of the flitch panel you show is well above average for an aged Riley one-pointy-five. I did much like you, I used a wire wheel in a drill motor to remove 80% of the corrosion then treated the surface with POR prep, sort of an etching primer? anyway it bubbled a bit on application so it must do something helpful. I rinsed all this with water etc. dried it off prior to POR paint, in my case Black.
You are doing a bang up job.
Bruce
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Post by rgswisstex on Jan 2, 2016 19:20:45 GMT
Yes Simon, I got the neoprene on a roll, available in an Automotive parts store over here in the USA, check it on Google in the UK, you may find it on eBay.
Rolf
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Post by biggles on Feb 8, 2016 18:24:16 GMT
Biggles's wing is now with Ashridge Automobiles in Long marston, Bucks - they're going to repair the damaged edge of the wing and try to sensitively match the paint so that I don't have to respray the whole wing, as there are 2 different 'greens' above and below the door crease. ashridgeautomobiles.co.uk/ |
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Post by canuck on Feb 9, 2016 12:35:19 GMT
Simon, Looks like you have chosen a 'good' place for repairs to the wing. Colour matching is an art few shops master.
salut B |
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FWIW I would not worry, I do not think panel alignment was a particular strong point on the Riley 
and what I see I like, no corrosion visible. The spot weld you mention leads me to believe the wing has not been removed previously, and I think this weld was done at Longbridge. Was it adjacent to the drain hole in the front panel flange? I ended up drilling through this spot weld in order to remove my wing. 
