Windscreen seal replacement

[canuck]

Chaps,

I need some advice.

I am about to undertake the replacement of the rubber seal of the front windscreen on George. I have become ace at dash removal  so this part I have under control.

I currently have the BMC original (perished) one that is a one piece moulded type. The replacement I have is a "off the roll" type hence there will be a joint when installed. 

Questions;

Where would one place the joint? top? sides? etc.

What does one do at the  joint? seal with silicone? some other product?

How 'tight' does one make this seal, tight to the glass, tight to the opening?

Any other guidance will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

B

[2robert4]

I am not an expert on the Riley 1.5 but you should fit the seal to the screen the joint should be around TDC and can be butt or scarf jointed the rubber should fit securely to the screen and not baggy I should also say make sure you have the seal the correct way around as only one side has the cut out for the chrome insert to be fitted last (soak the rubber in hot water prior to fitting it to the screen so the the rubber is more pliable and easier to work). Use para cord or similar around the rubber U section to allow the inner part of the rubber to be pulled over the inner aperture of the bodywork from the inside while an assistant pushes from the outside working around the aperture until the rubber lip is pulled through to the inside of the vehicle. The next step is to fit the chrome trim it is best done with the correct tool (Gunson make one in the UK best search on ebay or similar) the trim also locks the screen rubber into place. Use some rubber lube or washing up liquid etc work from BDC around the seal working the trim in using the tool once all in cut to a butt joint at the bottom of the screen (use a piece of plywood under the trim when cutting so nothing gets damaged) The last job is to seal the screen with a special none hardening screen mastic (Arbro do one in the UK From Frosts) use the nozzle to get under the outer lip and work around the aperture until you have gone all the way around you will notice as you go that the rubber will squeeze out some of the sealant this is quite normal and should be wiped off when you have gone all the way around. Do not use silicone sealant as this will harden and will not allow any movement and will eventually let moisture through.
I do hope that this is of some help and I am sure some one out there will have some input to help you also
Regards
NP

[canuck]

Thanks Robert

I appreciate the detail procedure.

I have a seal bought from this firm,

www.classiccar-trim.com/phdi/p1.nsf/supppages/eastkent?opendocument&part=5

and the extrusion looks correct, along with the filler strip. 

 

Question;

What would I seal the scarf joint of the rubber seal with?

Would I allow this sealant to harden & make a good solid seal prior to installing the glass/seal into the windscreen aperture? I (I have an abundance of patience)

If I understand well, once the rubber & glass is firmly in place I then add a sealant around the outer joint of car body & rubber seal?

FWIW I will be re using the OE metal finisher trim, and I expect for this task, my patience to be called to service yet again.

Bruce

[noddy]

Hi Bruce,

In my opinion, this job is best left to the pros.
Its very easy to mess it up - or even worse, crack the screen. When mine needed replacing, I got a company to do it. They made a superb job of it, no leaks and a factory fresh look.

All the best,
Roger

[2robert4]

I am in agreement with Roger regarding letting professionals do a job if you are in any doubt about your ability Laminated screens crack easily as compared to the old style Toughened ones which are more forgiving. I also have my doubts about using the old finisher as the profile of the new finisher is made specifically to tension up the rubber in situ the original item may not produce the correct preload on the rubber and thus leaks may occur after a period of time. The joint between the two half's of the rubber can be assembled with a smear of windscreen sealer you may also find a butt joint is easier to and you need to remember to cut slightly more than you need to allow for shrinkage this also applies to the plastic finisher.
Hope this helps
NP

[canuck]

OK food for thought.

Hmmm? left to a professional you say? So I may have to pay myself to do this ......................

Not quite sure what seal you chaps have used. The extrusion I have is like the OE and has a filler strip, similar to below, (but does have allowance for SS trim strip).

I assumed, (perhaps incorrectly) this rubber filler strip is to 'tension' the seal once installed, with the stainless steel trim being just that a trim, with purpose of aesthetics? 

Following Robert advice/installation details I would install the windscreen/seal assy etc. into the aperture, then run a bead of sealant between car body & rubber seal, then install the filler strip, that would serve to firm up the rubber seal shape.  Any time later when I feel like it, (think winter) I could then install the SS trim pieces.

FWIW I have not had the SS trim pieces on the car for many years as the rubber has hardened and deteriorated to such a degree that they no longer hold in place. Fortunately I saw one piece as it flew off whilst driving around and was able to retrieve it.

Back to you

Bruce

[2robert4]

I apologise my explanation must be poor I did in my mind not suggest that you leave the trim strip out as this is what locks the whole thing together and closes the rubber onto the screen and tensions the rubber on to the outer lip on the bodywork.You also mention that you have not had the Chrome/Stainless trim on for many years because of the hardened rubber this just goes to show that that trim is only cosmetic otherwise a very bad water leak would ensue virtually straight away only the strength of the hardened rubber holding it in place.
NP

[canuck]

Robert

I appreciate the feedback.

Did the seal you used, (and Roger for that matter) employ a filler strip? as I show, or just the solid rubber seal with an allowance for the 'beauty' trim?

Bruce

[noddy]

Bruce,
Mine had a solid rubber seal and the 'beauty' strip - which was the original factory fitting.
Rog

[2robert4]

If you have an older O.E. one piece seal it has a chrome/stainless beauty strip but more modern varieties whether one piece or not seam to have a locking strip possibly because it fastens the rubber to the bodywork/screen more efficiently and allow the seal to be more flexible when fitting?

[canuck]

Thanks for all this ,

I may be a bit thick, or experiencing a senior moment but I am still confused.

My concern is I may well have the incorrect windscreen seal.  As mentioned earlier in the thread I bought this seal including correct rubber locking strip from East Kent Trim, (3 years ago) with confirmation that the OE stainless beauty trim will fit. A dry fit, (a mock up with some plywood etc.) off the car confirms that this is so. Remember being over here in the colonies bits & pieces suppliers are rare to none hence the purchase.  At the time I do not think club spares had these, or I wasn't a member or they would not ship outside UK for liability or something.

@ Roger you say you have an OE seal that doesn't have a rubber locking strip, I am thinking you have an aftermarket club spares seal? 

See the factory parts list snip below,

#5 is stainless steel 'beauty' trim, #2 is the actual seal and #3 is the rubber locking strip.

If I understand well the aftermarket seal, that club spares has on offer, and Wolseley spares I assume, is a solid rubber seal with a 'plastic' chrome look alike strip that inserts to the extrusion and helps lock the seal in place, correct? and this being what you have fitted Roger?

I understand this to be from Robert last post.   

Perhaps I should buy a new seal from club spares if they will dispatch outside UK.

Thanks for your continued patience,

Back to you chaps

Bruce

[rgswisstex]

Bruce,
I got mine from the club spares with chrome looking rubber locking strip. I had no problem putting the windshield in First I put the windshield rubber in the car frame then I put the glass in the seal at the bottom working my way around to flop over the outer lip with a plastic trim tool while pushing on the glass. You need lots of soapy water, once the glass is in place you have to use a special tool available on eBay to install the locking strip, again lots of soap and just pull the locking strip in to the groove with the tool.
Good luck, it is doable,
Rolf

[canuck]

Roger

Thanks for this. A different approach than Robert, and pretty much as described in the shop manual. I suppose nice to know I have options if I get hamfisted.  

The tool I will need is like below, as shown in the manual

Did you use any sealant on the outside of the body between the rubber seal and the aperture? as Robert suggests?

thanks

B

[2robert4]

Just received my copy of Practical Classics August edition there is a good article including some pictures regarding windscreen removal and replacement to repair rusted body work plus there is a picture of a nice restored one point five one the back page. With reference to the sealant again my description did not come out correct the sealant should be around the outer lip of the glass part of the seal unless you have a known leak between the body and the seal and (the Seal) is new or in known good order.
NP

[canuck]

OK I think I have got all the information I need to tackle this. 

Confession is good for the soul so it would be.

I often remind owners to reference the manual, I use this regularly but somehow I had overlooked  the sketch below. This shows/explains well how the bits are fitted, and confirms I have the correct section rubber extrusion. 

 

Thanks again, you chaps are gold!

Bruce