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Post by Mabel on Aug 11, 2016 13:26:04 GMT
Two things
1) Out here in France, Mabel seems to run a lot hotter than in the UK with the temperature gauge climbing above N and on towards high. That's logical bearing in mind it's hotter out here, however the top hose gets warm/hot quickly and the bottom hose stays cold. I didn't run the car for that long though so can't tell at this stage if staying cold is a permanent fixture. The rad looks as if it's had better days but is it more likely to be a radiator issue or, and I hope not, blocked water gullies in the engine? Would love it to be as simple as something as a duff thermostat but could I be that lucky.
2) I was going for a run on Monday to a show about 90 mins away but I'm getting a constant drip, drip, drip from the rear (closest to the bulkhead) float chamber. Was going to ring Burlen to see what they thought but before doing so, anyone any ideas before I dive in and take the carbs apart? That would account for the seemingly low mpg I'm getting and also having petrol drip down near a hot engine isn't the greatest strategy to have.
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Post by 2robert4 on Aug 11, 2016 14:44:45 GMT
1 Thermostats are designed to fail open as with everything there is always an exception and trust me you would know if it had failed shut. I have had one of the support arms on a thermostat brake and jam the valve partially open this might cause the symptoms you are experiencing but to be honest I think that the core in your Rad is blocked with limescale and silt.
You might be able to back flush the Rad with some success but if the core is old or maybe original as mine was the best thing to do is to replace the core. I am sure you will find someone in rural France to do this for you as there tend to still be more small firms there than in the UK.
I also changed to Evans waterless coolant some time after changing my rad as I was fed up of changing the coolant every two years and afraid of it boiling up in long traffic queues.It may be a long process and not cheap £60 for the cleaning fluid and £120 for the coolant (leaving 2.5 Ltrs for top ups blown hoses etc) however the engine runs cooler and the temp does not move above normal no matter how long the vehicle is running in traffic and top ups seem to be athing of the past it is a fit and forget system and is good down to minus 40c and boils at 140c.
2 If the drip is not from the rear overflow it could be from the Rubber Float Chamber seals as they perish with age and can also be attacked by E10 fuels which are more common on the continent or even tired cork seals on the Main Jet leaking.
If the first two instances can be ruled out then the things to check regarding your fuel leak are:- Is there a lot of sediment in the float bowl? If there is there could be sediment trapped in the needle valve or is the Valve excessively worn at the tip? Shake the Float can you hear anything inside it? If you can the float has a leak repair is difficult as if the weight is changed due to a repair then it will sink anyway. Burlen do a non sinkable float only slightly more than the standard brass one.
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Post by Mabel on Aug 11, 2016 14:58:12 GMT
Great response and thanks. I'll get started as soon as it's feasible to do so. As for getting rads re-cored out here in the middle of nowhere I'll ask around but that might have to wait until I get back to the UK in October. See re-cored rads on fleabay occasionally but they don't come cheap. £200 plus if my memory serves me right. Hopefully it's seals only with regards to the leak. That'll probably be investigated next week.
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Post by canuck on Aug 13, 2016 20:07:31 GMT
Hello Graham, I will second Robert advice. This reads like a failed thermostat and of course this is an easy check and correct, if you packed a 1/2" spanner and new gasket with you.
Robert is spot on about the float chamber mounting grommets. These do dry out with age and their sealing qualities greatly diminish. You may want to try giving the nut a tighten. This may buy you a drip free summer?
Enjoy B |
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Post by bobthescrapman on Aug 14, 2016 13:54:03 GMT
I should look at the float first. A lot of the old brass floats are starting to give way. Take the float out and give it a shake. If it's got petrol in it, that's why the carb is leaking. Just had it on my 2.6 and Pathfinder. The float doesn't come up high enough to shut the fuel off and then the petrol comes through the air hole in the top lid of the float bowl.
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Post by Mabel on Aug 16, 2016 20:45:54 GMT
Hangs head in shame and embarrassment...........loose brass banjo bolt at the rear of the float.
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Post by bobthescrapman on Aug 17, 2016 13:48:08 GMT
A nice, easy fix. Super!
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Post by canuck on Aug 21, 2016 10:45:43 GMT
Hangs head in shame and embarrassment...........loose brass banjo bolt at the rear of the float. your mechanical skills strengthen while your eyesight weakens.  Easy fix! good on ya. B |
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