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Post by johnmann on Nov 26, 2017 12:59:52 GMT
Having removed the sump and cleaned out the sludge I was going to refit it today. I already had a sump gasket as part of a NOS "conversion set" I had purchased on Ebay a few years ago. But when I came to fit it, it was half an inch too short, although the right shape and width. The screw holes were also out proportional to their position. Very strange!
My parts list shows it as 1G2290 and unchanged during the life of the vehicle. I could only find one supplier selling this and they wanted £10 delivery so I have crossed my fingers and ordered an MG one from Moss. I'll post an update when it arrives.
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Post by canuck on Nov 26, 2017 15:18:57 GMT
Hello Johnmann
I cannot shed any light on your mysterious sump gasket.  Be aware that this 1489cc engine that is fitted to our Riley was universally fitted to many cars, farming equipment and even industrial electrical generators.  The good thing being parts are readily available.
The OE part number 1G2290 is correct and in some of my documentation shows has been superseded by 12H397. So, part number aside, any sump gasket for a 1489cc engine will fit our engines. Have confidence that if you ordered a MGA sump gasket all will fit.
B
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Post by oakall2 on Nov 26, 2017 17:42:36 GMT
As a side issue but, I hope, relevant - If one has access to a ramp can all the big-end bearings, oil pump etc be replaced with the engine in the car ? I have to admit that I have not looked min the manual for advice.
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Post by noddy on Nov 26, 2017 18:06:36 GMT
Hi oakall2,
With the engine in the car it is easy to change all big-ends and the oil pump. However the rear main bearing cannot be changed (I think the front one may be possible - but quite awkward!)
All most all jobs on the engine can be done with it still in the car - although changing the camshaft would mean removing the rad, grill and most probably the front panel.
Roger.
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Post by johnmann on Dec 10, 2017 11:39:57 GMT
Here's an update, Moss part AJM503 proved to be the correct size and shape and is now fitted. I would guess from this that the ones from Club Spares, which have a comment against them in the spares list: "SAYS NOT 1.5, MGB" are probably OK as well, but don't hold me to it!
So, sump on, filled with oil, but I can't get pressure and have a leak at the filter head! A new post on that subject will probably follow soon!
John.
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Post by noddy on Dec 12, 2017 20:51:33 GMT
"sump on, filled with oil, but I can't get pressure"John, Just a thought - but did you replace the oil pump gasket whilst doing all this work? These gaskets are different for the 5-bearing engines - and fit a 5-bearing gasket to a 3-bearing engine could give you problems! I had the same problem when building my race engine - couldn't get any pressure at all - then found the offending gasket!  Also consider packing the pump with vaseline to help prime it on initial startup. Let us know how you get on - good luck. Roger
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Post by canuck on Dec 12, 2017 22:29:34 GMT
"sump on, filled with oil, but I can't get pressure"John, Just a thought - but did you replace the oil pump gasket whilst doing all this work? These gaskets are different for the 5-bearing engines - and fit a 5-bearing gasket to a 3-bearing engine could give you problems! I had the same problem when building my race engine - couldn't get any pressure at all - then found the offending gasket!
Ummm? you have this in reverse Roger.  This anomaly comes into play when inadvertently fitting a 3 main gasket to a five main engine. Fortunately for us weekend spanner turners a five main oil pump gasket will not physically fit a three main engine, 18G 3 main shown below.
But to be sure, we are discussing a 3 main 1489 engine, and he did not mention anything about the oil pump being removed? While this deep in the sump, it is always prudent to verify the state of the oil pump,
gaskets etc. both body to block and screen to pick up.
Let's see what happens when he corrects the filter head leak.
salut B
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Post by noddy on Dec 13, 2017 20:20:31 GMT
Thanks Bruce - I stand corrected! didnt realise that a 5-main gasket wouldnt fit a 3-main engine.
Interesting why there is no oil pressure. I guess it depends on how serious the filter leak is. Just a dribble and I am sure there would be some build up of pressure - but a Niagara style leak would show no pressure!
As you suggest - might be wise to fix leak, check pump for wear and the prime it before starting again.
Roger
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Post by johnmann on Dec 13, 2017 21:27:20 GMT
I'm somewhat embarrassed to say I left the oil pump alone. I was tempted to remove it and also renew the big end bearings (having much to my surprise successfully done this job on my Astra) however I am keen to get the car back on the road so in the end put those jobs off till next winter.
The oil leak is nothing like the problem I had at last filter change, where the entire contents of the sump were deposited on the floor in a few seconds. That proved to be due to the loss of the filter head to block sealing ring. Rather than battling this, I'm having another go at fitting a spin-on filter conversion. I bought one a few years ago and it sat on the shelf for a while until oil change when I discovered it was so badly made it would not fit. This new one looks OK though so I'll get that fitted and try again. I'm only spinning the engine on the starter, so it may take a while to build up pressure.
I'll post some more reports when there is further news!
John.
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Post by noddy on Dec 14, 2017 6:44:01 GMT
"I left the oil pump alone" - Well, that eliminates a gasket issue!
John,
You have to spin the engine for a good 30 seconds without the plugs in to build up any pressure - only if you have no pressure after that might you have a problem.
I have heard about poor quality after-market spin on conversions - good luck with the second one!
Cheers,
Roger
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Post by canuck on Dec 17, 2017 16:12:01 GMT
Hello John, Yes, adding a spin on oil filter makes oil changes so much less messy.
If you fit the kit offered by Moss pay attention. It fits the block well but there is something to check, and ultimately modify. The brand oil filter used does matter and needs to be checked.
What can/may happen is that the oil filter can/may bottom out on the threaded section and jam. This will either prevent the filter from initially sealing or when unscrewing the filter at oil change loosen the assembly from the block. Ughh! Neither are desirable.
This is what needs to be checked, shoulder of threaded section needs to be below or level with the casting, and the filter type needs to have threaded section below the rubber seal height
and if the adapter threaded section is too high then can easily be chucked in a lathe and sorted.
and is very nice when fitted.
believe it or not you will look forward to the oil change. 
B |
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The good thing being parts are readily available.
This anomaly comes into play when inadvertently fitting a 3 main gasket to a five main engine. Fortunately for us weekend spanner turners a five main oil pump gasket will not physically fit a three main engine, 18G 3 main shown below. 
