Difficulty removing bumper brackets

[casper171072]

I have been trying to remove the rear bumper brackets. I saw there were two bolts for each side. A couple of the bolts unscrewed fine but two others are ust spinning. I am guessing they screw into a captive nut of some sort but I couldn’t find access to it. Anyone else had this problem and how did you resolve it. Is there access to the nut that I haven’t seen. Thanks in advance

[canuck]

Hello Casper,

Are you asking about these fasteners?

I cannot recall, been a while since I was there,  but I believe there is a nut plate. Can you not feel above through that opening in the frame?

Back to you

Bruce

[casper171072]

Yes those are the nuts but I don’t seem to have those openings in the frame. I will have another look tomorrow because I didn’t see anything to suggest they had been welded up either. Very strange

[canuck]

Mar 24, 2018 22:06:29 GMT casper171072 said:

Yes those are the nuts but I don’t seem to have those openings in the frame. I will have another look tomorrow because I didn’t see anything to suggest they had been welded up either. Very strange

Hello Casper,

Full disclosure is due.

I gleaned the photo I posted from the www. I am no where near my car so cannot verify if the opening is there or not on my car, a MK1 if that has any bearing?

The illustrated parts list

shows a bolt only from below comfirming my earlier suggestion that there is a nut plate on the inside of the body rail.

Perhaps the opening in the rail was/is to address the spinning nut situation that you are wrestling with?

Back to you

Bruce

[johnmann]

Just had a look on mine (Mk 3) and there is no hole.

John.

[casper171072]

Can confirm on my mk1 there is no hole and no apparent way to see the bolt or get to it

[canuck]

Casper

This is a bugger!! 

I guess the chap that drilled that round (rather tidy actually) opening was fixing just your situation.

Below;  (click on it for a large view)

is a snap of the construction of the rear frame. I highlighted where the nut plate should be. This appears to be open ended, however the red car I show in my previous post indicates the rear valance will interfere with access.

Let me have a think again,

Bruce

[canuck]

Casper,
I got to thinking, (doesn't happen that often) 

I had to address a similar but different situation.

When I took apart my car some years ago I unfortunately broke two bolts securing the transmission cross member. FWIW there is a captive nut plate inside the inaccessible for/aft chassis rail. The fix was rather simple. I drilled vertically from below through the broken stud hole until I reached the floor pan. I then knew where this bolt was located and simply drilled a larger diameter hole in the floor pan, to allow for a nut and socket to be dropped in at assembly. I since did a permanent fix and cut a plate from the floor pan and replaced the nut plate completely. I closed the floor pan with plate steel, hidden under carpet anyway.


So if you have read this far,  maybe you can think to do similar for this stripped bumper nut? I believe the top of this rear chassis rail in inside the boot? Best to check as I am nowhere near my car.

Using a long drill bit, do the same vertical drilling process (described above) from below, locate the top hole and enlarge it accordingly for a socket & nut.




Once you are all done simply close this hole(s) using a plastic plug. (below)
 

www.bresco.com/acatalog/Self-sealing_Plugs_and_Grommets.html

I may be standing out in the potatoes field with this idea but ................ 

Back to you



Bruce

[canuck]

Casper,

How did you make out with this? Did you just give up?

I will be near my car tomorrow to prepare it for spring and will have a look at these fasteners, whether they turn or are seized as yours .

salut

Bruce

[casper171072]

sorry for the late reply, i got tied up with other things. I never did get to the bottom of it as I ended up getting other things sorted and now I'm  just enjoying the car.  i only wanted to take it off to see how it looked bumperless for that racing replica feel but I have seen others now and thing the look better with the bumper on :-)

[tjt77]

this issue is a common one:- rust gets in the box section and seizes the bumper iron bolts firmly .. they are in 'cages' and can easily break the cage and spin,making LOT of extra work....so caution is advised :- there are a number of different ways to approach this ..(1) Get a really good penetrant such as 'Aerokroil' ( available via internet only in my area) and soak it down repeatedly over few days.. then apply heat to the bolt with a plumbers mapp gas torch and see if you can get it to budge.. if not.. then either drill out the bolt . making sure you get the hole dead centre.. start with a 1/8" or 3/16" drill and work upwards .. to avoid MORE work you can drill a 3/16" hole right through.. then cut the bolt heads off with die grinder (leaving enough bolt to grip with Vice grips once the bumper iron is off) and after removal of the bumper iron spray penetrant through the hole in the bolt using the tube that comes with aerosol penetranet.. leave to soak in as long as is possible and repeat a few times.... and they try and twist off the bolt with vice grips..
Or:- if you have a mig welder.. weld another bolt head to the remains of the bolt.. and try and undo it with a spanner or socket..(the heat form the weld will usually break it free) IF the bolt spins in its cage you have extra work :- you have to cut out the part with the bolts on it with a die grinder .. resolve/recitfy the issue in the bench.. and weld it back in ..
this is never a pleasant job .. good luck.. make sure to add lots of antiseize to the bolts and get some waxoyl in there to prevent future problems after job is done..