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Post by oakall2 on May 27, 2018 18:33:49 GMT
The brakes on Riley satisfy the requirements of the MOT but require anticipation and planning before using them. I fitted a servo but that would, on occasions, result in locked front wheels !!!! so it was dis-connected. I am sure that someone has fitted disc brakes Has anyone advice etc. that they can give ? Look forward to any replies. Harry
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Post by casper171072 on May 31, 2018 11:50:07 GMT
Ive not done this conversion myself but it is something I will be looking at one day. my brothers 1.5 has been done and it is much better I think but others think the standard system is more than adequate. there are a good few kits out there that you can get that supply all the bits needs for Morris Minors and my understanding is that they are the same fittings etc. ESM is one of the bigger Morris Minor places, I have used the for a few bits and they do the kits, might be worth a look.
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Post by canuck on Jun 2, 2018 14:30:50 GMT
Harry, Your post reads as if there is something amiss with your brakes. For sure the drum brakes as fitted to the Riley are adequate and you should be able to lock the wheels when wanted. Although not the ultimate test this is to prove the hydraulics are functioning as should.
The addition of the booster will only serve to reduce pedal pressure and should not increase the braking efficiency.
I believe the disc brake kits available are a nice to have. I looked into this many years ago and memory tells me that the friction surface of the discs was pretty much that of the drum/shoe configuration so I deduced no improvement in braking. What a disc brake system will do for you is reduce fade , (run cooler) and offer better braking under extreme conditions, long downhill runs, Gran Prix at Brandshatch that sort of thing..
Make sure your current braking is up to snuff, sounds like this is not the case.
salut
Bruce
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Post by johnmann on Jun 2, 2018 19:57:33 GMT
Hmm, how much pedal force is needed to lock the wheels? I will have a try if I can find a quiet enough road, but my braking system also requires "anticipation and planning"! Moreover, everything has been replaced, shoes hoses and cylinders, apart from the master cylinder which has new seals.
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Post by noddy on Jun 3, 2018 6:51:22 GMT
Hi Harry,
If you want to go the route of disk brakes there are several ways. The easiest is to get a Morris Minor kit - off the shelf from most Moggy specialists. However I do believe that Marina and Sprite/Midget set ups will also work on our cars. Our racer has a Ford Sierra system (bigger disks I think!) and we can now stop on a dime!!.
However - why bother? - unless you are doing some serious competition work, I think a well set up and adjusted drum system is fine. A servo though is a good idea - just reduces the pedal pressure a little - just be a little gentler and you wont lock-up!
If I was you, just stick with the current system, make sure its in perfect order and drive accordingly.
Roger
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Post by canuck on Jun 3, 2018 12:45:40 GMT
Hmm, how much pedal force is needed to lock the wheels? I will have a try if I can find a quiet enough road, but my braking system also requires "anticipation and planning"! Moreover, everything has been replaced, shoes hoses and cylinders, apart from the master cylinder which has new seals.
John, Too funny, and you are right, the Riley does need "anticipation and planning" but every now and then the un expected happens. Often when I drive across the city there is always a member of the 'R. Sole family' on their phone, or outside lane to inside lane change for an exit, that sort of thing. In these situations ones reflexes move the foot from accelerator pedal to brake pedal with 'panic' resulting in squealing tires. I could lock the wheels on command when I had narrow (5-20) cross plies and since I have fitted 155 radials I am still able to lock wheels at panic situation. I think the front before the rear but never sure. If one is fitted with 165 size tire on standard wheels then this may be difficult.
Bruce
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Post by johnmann on Jun 3, 2018 20:23:23 GMT
OK just out of interest I tried an emergency stop on a little-used level road. I meant to take a GPS so I could get the speed spot on but forgot. So, braking hard from 30 MPH on the speedometer pulled the car up in 12 metres. The highway code distance is 14 metres. The tyres are 155 radials like Bruce, but I could not lock them. Possibly the shoes are still bedding in. I also think that in making sure the braking system is safe, the condition of the seat mounts needs to be good!
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Post by canuck on Jun 4, 2018 15:44:09 GMT
OK just out of interest I tried an emergency stop on a little-used level road. I meant to take a GPS so I could get the speed spot on but forgot. So, braking hard from 30 MPH on the speedometer pulled the car up in 12 metres. The highway code distance is 14 metres. The tyres are 155 radials like Bruce, but I could not lock them. Possibly the shoes are still bedding in. I also think that in making sure the braking system is safe, the condition of the seat mounts needs to be good!
John, This is great, empirical modern day data. this reads like your brakes are in good order for sure.
FWIW I include a snap from a The Motor road test in 1963.
The pedal pressure information is interesting, would be good to know how they did this. I agree on the seat mounts, the Mark 1 seat mounts are 'minimalist' to be sure.
salut
Bruce
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Post by oakall2 on Jun 4, 2018 18:58:51 GMT
Thanks for all the interesting replies. They brakes do conform to the requirements of the MOT and the wife is concerned so we are ok. Harry
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tjt77
Junior Member
Posts: 68
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Post by tjt77 on Jun 18, 2018 23:21:12 GMT
There are an abundance of option for converting to disc brakes up front... and a myriad of 'opinions' as to which is 'the best' ... my preface is the 'Mr Grumpy' hit sold by ESM and bullmotif spares... Why ? its the first conversion that was developed in UK and is what the factory would most likely have used.. basically its all Morris Marina bits with bespoke hubs to fit the Morris /Riley/wolseley bolt pattern.. the kit has everything including new hubs and 'TAPER ROLLER' wheel bearings and all necessary hardware to fit it.... and also has a backing plate to keep out road grit ( most other kits do not have this feature) and is very reasonably priced to boot.. if you live outside the Uk and are subject to high shipping costs, its actually less money than rebuilding the existing 9" drums with all new bits.. if you desire really good stopping power any of the morris minor tuner that offer brake upgrades can supply 4 piston calipers and ventilated disc kits.. overkill unless you have in excess of 120 hp and tend to drive like maniac.. ..
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