jA40
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by jA40 on Sept 21, 2020 21:29:54 GMT
Does anyone have any advice on 'splitting' torsion bars?
I need them off (to clean up) & to be able to paint the underfloor.
I'm guessing "heat" will be required, either way - but suspect the front splines
may easier to part than the rear ones........
Thanks in anticipation.
p.s. still looking for a pair of sills.
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Post by tonyhosk on Sept 21, 2020 22:20:09 GMT
I just followed the workshop manual instructions, undoing the nuts/bolts at the cross member to release the rear end and then tapped the inner lower wishbone arm forwards to release the front splines.
I decided not to try to remove the rear assembly, just clean everything up and then paint them. I did try to mark the position of the bar in the front wishbone beforehand so I could replace them in the same position. Not sure whether my scratchings will still be visible in a few months (year?) or so when they all go back together - there is an awful lot of repairs and welding to go before then!
Tony
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Post by canuck on Sept 23, 2020 17:40:39 GMT
I will add to Tony good advice. Hello Jeff, I am sure I don't need to mention this but I will anyway. There is an enormous amount of energy stored in these torsion bars so removing the tension by lowering the front suspension is critical. Garage safety lesson over.  Be aware that the splines are parallel so any resistance will be result of old grease or some level of rust. I suggest cleaning each end with thinners first them soaking in penetrating oil if you think this necessary will ease the removal. My ones came off very easily.  The front spline joint to the lower suspension arm will should come apart with a simple tap of a ballpean hammer.  You will then be able to undo the nut on the lower fulcrum pin for removal of this pin. If the rear spline offers grief, after removing the front suspension arm you will be able to slide the torsion bar rearward through the cross member and tackle this back end spline on the bench.  To do this simply remove the the bolt and the keeper then the torsion bar will slide rearward. To remove the stopper undo the two bolts. for clean up and paint. Note: although the torsion bar itself is not handed it is highly recommended to label them accordingly, (RH and LH) as over the years these bar develop a memory. You don't want them 'unwinding' on your car.  The short arm Bracket at the rear is handed. salut Bruce |
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jA40
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by jA40 on Sept 23, 2020 20:52:35 GMT
Hi Tony/Bruce,
Many thanks for your comments. I have already disconnected both ends of the bar assemblies. They are 'rattling' around in the centre X-member.
Both ends are well 'crusty' but, but as you say, the FRONT splines would appear to be the easiest to separate. Probably best to refit the rear mounts & then.........
If WD40 fails to have any impact, I'll threaten them with the welding torch!
Cheers, Jeff
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Post by canuck on Sept 23, 2020 23:22:10 GMT
Jeff, I wouldn't use a welding torch on a torsion bar. WD 40 is not the right stuff. WD = water displacement not rust. Get some PB Blaster or the like from Halfords. This stuff eats ferrous oxide very well. Perhaps heat from a plumbing torch wouldn't hurt B |
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jA40
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by jA40 on Sept 24, 2020 8:50:15 GMT
PB blaster, Bruce! Never heard of that stuff. I'll investigate.
Cheers, Jeff
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jA40
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by jA40 on Sept 24, 2020 18:51:46 GMT
In the end, I didn't need either! Just the mechanics favourite..........
A big hammer! I have a spare vice that I sat on the floor (as an anvil, of sorts) & proceeded to hammer the front arm
against it, around the splines (rotating it) in order to break the 'crust'.
I then clamped the bar in the vice (still on the floor) & was able to 'drift' the arm from the splines.
A good day at the office!
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Post by tonyhosk on Sept 24, 2020 21:53:30 GMT
Can't beat a good Birmingham screwdriver! Well done.
I've haven't heard of PB Blaster either, but sounds like I need some.
Tony
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Post by canuck on Sept 25, 2020 12:27:26 GMT
Jeff Well done you.  Brawn over brain is a good 'tool' to use, and I resort to this more often than I should. Remember to keep the RH bits with all the other RH bits etc. B |
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Post by ozieagle on Oct 26, 2020 3:39:50 GMT
NOTE, with torsion bars, new ones aren't handed, but once they have been on a car they become handed, and must not be swapped.
Herb
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Post by ozieagle on Oct 26, 2020 20:35:09 GMT
As a follow on, here is a simple gauge and method for adjusting the torsion bars for ride height. Herb Attachments:
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