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Post by jonnyb on May 19, 2023 14:34:49 GMT
Hi Herb, thanks for the worrying thought! Would the engine still run and pull well with a broken crankshaft? I highly doubt an engine with a broken crankshaft will run and pull well. Think about it; the break, if the engine will even run, may/will still allow the front business to take place, camshaft turn, so oil pump, distributor drive and tachometer drive to work as designed, (not sure the quality of all this however.) The drive will not come out teh rear however so no clutch or gears. I have met only one 3 main engine with a broken crankshaft and it didn't do anything like it was designed Yes I can't believe it would run either. I have had a centre main melt on an Austin 7 and the engine would still run to limp home very gently, but crank didn't break.
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Post by jonnyb on Jun 1, 2023 17:17:20 GMT
Well I picked the 1622 MGA engine up yesterday, sight unseen. The seller didn't know much about its history and it sounded as though it has been in storage for a very long time. I asked if it turned and he said he didn't know as he hadn't tried it! Once I unloaded it at home I found it still had oil in the sump, up to the mark, and it turns. I only turned it a few degrees to check as there may be debris inside but good news so far. Once I get back from next week's holiday I will clean it, pop it on the stand, take the head and sump off to see how it looks.
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Post by tonyhosk on Jun 1, 2023 21:01:08 GMT
Good news!!!
Tony
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Post by canuck on Jun 2, 2023 20:35:54 GMT
Bravo Jonathan, that will be a great addition.
B
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Post by jonnyb on Jul 22, 2023 19:51:47 GMT
Well I have done quite a lot of stripping on this engine and found no nasties. I would guess it was rebuilt within 10k miles. Pistons are +30 with good bores within tolerance. Main bearings and shells look good. Oil pump ok with clearances within limits. I am taking it to Chase engines in Newcastle under Lyme for final strip, thorough cleaning and measuring and to discuss next steps. Cylinder head also in good condition, though not original, which is going to Peter Burgess to receive his magic touch. Once the engine is done I will need to swap it for the present one. I would be glad to hear pros and cons of Engine only/ Engine+gearbox removal from those who have done this.
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Post by canuck on Jul 23, 2023 18:08:57 GMT
You appear to have a MGA 1622 power unit? What is the casting number of the cylinder head? I prefer to do the power unit only swap. So much easier and less ceiling height needed. Radiator needs to be removed with motor accessories but that is it. I work on my own and use a stationary block and tackle to lift and roll the car. If your car is a MK I put a couple of nice fluffy pillow on the windscreen and lay the bonnet against them. In my case I simply used the Riley motor rear plate, flywheel and clutch driven plate. To support the gearbox, run a bit of timber across the rear of the engine bay resting on the wings, with soft material between timber and car. A decent bit of line strung around the bellhousing will support the gearbox. I show this on my MGB but you get the idea. Being a Canadian I used a ice hockey stick. Bruce
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Post by jonnyb on Jul 23, 2023 19:44:33 GMT
Yes it is definitely a 1622 but with a head with similar valve sizes to the Riley rather than the slightly larger ones in the original 1622 head. The casting number on the head is 1H814 which I can't find reference to anywhere but maybe one produced in Australia. The combustion volume is same as Riley at 38.7c.c. rather than the 43c.c. of the 1622 engine so care will be needed to get the C.R. correct. Peter Burgess's head mods will increase the combustion volume so that will help but I will be discussing that with him. We should be able to get 9.5 I reckon. Not sure Bruce about your reference to using the Riley motor rear plate as I think the MG1622 and Riley back plates are the same. Were you using a 5 bearing engine?
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Post by canuck on Jul 24, 2023 15:14:02 GMT
Hello Jonathan,
I read that the cylinder head casting number is from a Cambridge A50.
I used a 3 main 1800, for the tachometer drive and flywheel bolt on compatibility. If my memory serves me the 18 rear plate has a different height starter motor opening that puzzled me on starter motor and flywheel combinations, as ell as the bellhousing fit?
In any event you seem to have this build in hand, and Peter B will do magic to that cylinder head.
Keep us apprised as you work through this build.
B
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Post by jonnyb on Jul 31, 2023 16:38:39 GMT
I read that the cylinder head casting number is from a Cambridge A50. Hi Bruce, I can't find any reference to the 1H814 casting anywhere but it has same valve sizes as Riley 1.5 and 15 cast on the top back surface of the head so almost certainly from a 1489 engine originally. Where did you find the Austin A50 reference? I have measured one of the chambers and it came out at 39.5cm3 volume, chamber depth 10.5mm and clearance from edge of inlet valve to block face as 9.7mm. So with a valve lift of about 9mm the valves should not contact the block face and the C.R. will be around 9.8. Fingers crossed!
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Post by jonnyb on Sept 7, 2023 12:36:15 GMT
Latest news. I spoke to Chase engines the other day and like me they found no nasties but recommended a rebore at +40 (from present +30) and crankshaft regrind at -10. Con rods, camshaft, followers and pushrods all good. Completion expected late Sept/early Oct. I am awaiting news from Peter Burgess re head but earlier discussions suggest existing head sound. With econotune mods, 10:1 compression ratio, and about 1670c.c. capacity the engine should pull well and cruise up hills. Here's hoping! For peace of mind I will fit uprated halfshafts from Peter May, Ford based disc brake kit from ESM with custom brake hoses, and front ARB. John Brown wheels with 175/70R14 tyres. Has anyone got a picture of the Riley gearbox looking into the bellhousing similar to one below which is MGA late gearbox. Hmmm seems we still can't post pics here! Do we know is it possible to send pics by private messages?
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Post by canuck on Sept 7, 2023 13:30:43 GMT
Hello John No quite sure what you are looking for in that photo we cannot post. Marrying the 1622 power unit you have to the existing Riley gearbox should be straight forward. You may want/need to use your original engine back plate; 1) to fit the bellhousing bolt patterns and 2) to align the starter motor hole flywheel interface. May I suggest you superimpose the 1622 rear plate to the original Riley rear plate to see if there is any differences. Use the Riley flywheel and clutch assembly. These are robust enough. You may want to lighten the flywheel. Bruce
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Post by jonnyb on Sept 7, 2023 14:07:55 GMT
May I suggest you superimpose the 1622 rear plate to the original Riley rear plate to see if there is any differences. Use the Riley flywheel and clutch assembly. These are robust enough. You may want to lighten the flywheel.
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Post by jonnyb on Sept 7, 2023 14:09:49 GMT
Hi Bruce, all my research suggests the 1622 engine will bolt straight on. However, I am trying to plan ahead but currently the Riley engine is still in the car and the MGA engine is 50 miles away. Before I sent the 1622 engine off I did look at the starter position and backplate bolt pattern and they definitely looked the same. As you say, the only way to be sure is by direct comparison of the two engines or gearboxes. I will know once the two engines are sitting on my garage floor! The MGA and Riley clutches are almost certainly identical and I think flywheels too will be interchangeable. I have found a huge amount of circumstantial evidence for that last statement from Workshop manuals, other websites and various suppliers listings; too much to go into here, and anyway I will soon have a definite answer that I can share here.
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Post by canuck on Sept 8, 2023 21:05:21 GMT
John Yes I think you will be good to go. I recall some chatter of 'high' starter motor and 'low' starter motor rear engine plates. I don't remember the details/differences however my 18G rear engine backplate wasn't compatible with the Riley gearbox. As a caution, again I think you will be OK, perhaps ensure the first motion shaft diameter will fit to the bush in the end of the 1622cc crankshaft. Nice project you are doing , you will love the result! B
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Post by canuck on Sept 8, 2023 21:07:25 GMT
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