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Post by jonnyb on Mar 19, 2023 11:38:16 GMT
I feel the engine in my 1960 mk2 has more vibration than it should but my previous classic was a 1970 MGB GT with the 5 bearing engine so I may be misjudging it. Having recently retuned it, it ticks over nicely but once revs get to the 3k-4k range the vibration feels excessive around 70mph. The engine and gearbox mounts are good and I have had all four wheels balanced which greatly helped and now there is almost no vibration through the steering column. The vibration is definitely engine speed related though. According to the previous owner the engine was rebuilt and this is borne out by my inspections together with good oil pressure and very good compression readings. I don't therefore want to rebuild the engine (and balance it). However I am considering whether to replace the crankshaft pulley with the damped version fitted to the MGB part no 12H963. I think this would be a direct swap and they are available used for about £25. Any ideas, thoughts, experiences welcome, Jonathan
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Post by 2robert4 on Mar 19, 2023 16:01:54 GMT
I personally think that is a good idea although I have never done such a swap, so long as the timing marks are in the same position as the solid pulley and the rubber sandwich is in good condition on the replacement pulley it should be ok. I hope this is of some help? NP
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Post by jonnyb on May 6, 2023 17:43:10 GMT
I have done lots of checks on ignition, fuelling, engine mounts etc and have concluded there is an imbalance in the engine which means it has to be stripped and checked. As I don't want to take the car off the road for too long I have sourced another engine to rebuild. It is the 1622 engine from the mk2 MGA which I think should be a bolt in change. I will need to use a 10 spline clutch to mate with Riley gearbox I think. If successful it should give a useful power increase too. Any thoughts, advice welcome.
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Post by ozieagle on May 6, 2023 20:40:15 GMT
Have you checked your universal joints, for play?
Herb
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Post by jonnyb on May 7, 2023 9:18:52 GMT
Thanks Herb, Yes I've checked them, but vibration is present with car stationery, in neutral, as revs are raised. I am sure the imbalance is from clutch forwards.
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Post by ozieagle on May 7, 2023 19:35:16 GMT
However I am considering whether to replace the crankshaft pulley with the damped version fitted to the MGB part no 12H963. I think this would be a direct swap and they are available used for about £25. Any ideas, thoughts, experiences welcome, Jonathan
On my engine a PO changed the pulley / balancer and also the timing cover, with a rubber seal. I don't know if that is necessary or not. If changing the cover remember to fit the balancer before tightening the cover bolts, to centre the seal properly and stop future leaks. Herb
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Post by jonnyb on May 8, 2023 8:23:05 GMT
Hi Herb, yes presumably your PO changed the cover as well as the pulley to ensure both had timing marks together at the top. Good point about the seal, thanks. Has anyone advice on the 1622 engine or similarity to 3 bearing 1800 install?
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Post by canuck on May 8, 2023 13:27:13 GMT
Hello Johnny I can tell you stories about a 18G, 3 main install. The engine is 'plug n play' (mech tachometer drive) with the correct rear engine plate, flywheel and use the Riley 10 spline clutch assembly. I struggled to find a suitable water pump to fit the early 18G engine engine block volute but that is life being over here and not near a mine of available parts. The caveat to all this is the rear axle. The Riley rear axle, although a marvelous final drive ratio of 3:7-1 the half shafts just can't handle the added HP & torque of the 1800 engine. Remember that this Riley rear end is that of the Morris Manure and rated to handle 48HP? Even in standard Riley tune breaking standard half shafts is an issue. There is solutions, upgraded half shafts, MGB banjo steel wheel rear axle assembly (with mods) or tuffrided Riley half shafts that will mitigate this issue. If you choose a MG rear end be aware that the final drive ration is 3:9-1 so not as desirable. An interesting engineering exercise that will reap benefits if your mechanical skills and budget allows. So back to your vibration issue. There is an enigmatic ' anti judder thingy' (tech term) installed between the gear box and engine. This may be at play? Is this in place on your car? is this in good order? When I first got my car my one was jammed up and the bushes' were perished. Once I sorted the parts, LH & RH threaded stud, nuts s etc. some of the vibration was mitigated. I was able to source parts from a MM engine steady rod assembly. www.morrisminorspares.com/engine-c14/ohv-engine-c16/engine-steady-bar-complete-original-type-p830276salut B
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Post by jonnyb on May 8, 2023 15:25:25 GMT
Hi Bruce, thanks for reply. From reading other posts I saw you had gone down the 1800 3 bearing route so hoped you would chip in. Looks like the 1622 will be plug n play as I thought and it will be an oomph enhancement too. I love tinkering and 10 years ago put a 3litre V6 in a mk1 MR2. However, at 73 I don't want to fall into the trap of having a project that never gets finished, I want to drive it. So I will rebuild the 1622 and swap the engine over in the winter. For reasons just given, I will also go with upgraded half shafts and keep the 3.7 diff. Regarding the "anti judder thingy" haha, my car is a mk2 chassis number 209xx so has the later "judder killer". I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and dismantle the cross member to inspect. More bullets to bite than I can shake a stick at, at present, especially whilst trying to avoid falling down rabbit holes! Cheers, Jonathan
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Post by jonnyb on May 10, 2023 16:46:37 GMT
Well I decided to get a second opinion on my engine vibration, and a few other things. Another Riley 1.5 owner, David McCall, lives near me and runs a classic car business. He felt the vibration was much more than he'd expect and was clutch/flywheel/engine related, so engine out for checks! He also identified a clatter in the front suspension as movement in the nearside staybar yoke so I'll be dismantling that soon too. So my "to do" list grows longer! But I did buy the car to drive and gradually improve.
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Post by canuck on May 10, 2023 21:01:04 GMT
Jonathan, The tie bar is a doddle to put right.
Often the bolt may wear at the yoke, or the hole in the tie bar becomes oval. In any event this is a straight forward fix, and an intuitive design once to delve into it.
I believe the tie bar, should you need to renew it, is that of a MM one?
B
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Post by ozieagle on May 12, 2023 20:55:39 GMT
I've had a worrying thought, about your vibration, that maybe it is a broken crankshaft. Not a common problem, but it does happen.
Herb
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Post by jonnyb on May 13, 2023 18:02:27 GMT
Hi Herb, thanks for the worrying thought! Would the engine still run and pull well with a broken crankshaft?
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Post by ozieagle on May 13, 2023 20:46:33 GMT
I really don't know, not having experienced this, myself. From those that have had it happen, it does seem the the engine will continue running, but I don't know how well.
Herb
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Post by canuck on May 19, 2023 14:18:57 GMT
Hi Herb, thanks for the worrying thought! Would the engine still run and pull well with a broken crankshaft? I highly doubt an engine with a broken crankshaft will run and pull well. Think about it; the break, if the engine will even run, may/will still allow the front business to take place, camshaft turn, so oil pump, distributor drive and tachometer drive to work as designed, (not sure the quality of all this however.) The drive will not come out teh rear however so no clutch or gears. I have met only one 3 main engine with a broken crankshaft and it didn't do anything like it was designed to ! B
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