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Post by canuck on Feb 20, 2016 18:53:41 GMT
Simon, Look back in this thread, (or the other). I challenged Rolf on just this 'poly bush' point and he replied. I found that fitting the rubber was struggle enough and I cannot imagine the 'stiffer' poly ones.
You might try aligning the stay rod in line, 90 degrees to the 'socket face' on the chassis rail, (other end free). You then should be able to install the bushes, washer and thread the castellated nut into place, all the while pushing on the stay rod with superhuman strength compressing the rear bush? Thinking as I write this. Once this is aligned and the nut on, you can then install the other 'free' end in the lower suspension bit, and bolt it up.
Good luck, let us know how you make out. Salut Bruce
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Post by biggles on Feb 21, 2016 7:51:14 GMT
I was afraid you'd say that - I think I need to compress the bushes just to get the nut and washer on at the chassis rail. At the moment I just have the nut on without the washer as that's all the thread available. The old rubber bushes look fine so they might have to go back on.
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Post by canuck on Feb 21, 2016 15:25:35 GMT
Simon, I so do dislike being the purveyor of negative news, The discussion went a bit like this;
Bruce asked; (poly bush) "did you encounter trouble with the tie bar bushes compressing enough? It is a devil of a time with new rubber to compress enough to allow for the split pin fitment. FWIW I have seen many MM with missing split pins."
Rolf response; "Bruce, I had trouble with the tie bar bush, but I just kept turning the nut until I could see the split pin hole, I almost gave up, but then again I never do give up. Rolf"
Bruce; "Thanks Rolf, this was my point and I appreciate the confirmation. The duro reading of the poly bushes I received were much higher than the rubber hence my use of only the inner lower pivot bush. I suggest that these bush may be too stiff for the car but you are pleased so that is what is important. I sold on my 'unused' bushes to a MM chap."
Here is a rather poor photo of MY rubber tie bar/bushes compressed. You can see that a good lot of tightening of the tie bar nut is required to align the castellated nut with the hole in the tie bar to install the split pin. Even with the rubber I found it helpful to tighten the front & install the split pin prior to installing the rear tie bar fastener in the lower suspension arm.
If your 'old' tie bar bushes are OK, (is the name MOWOG moulded in?) then re use should be OK. If they are showing signs of oil contamination, or age perish then you are best to renew.
I will end this epistle on a bright tone. You have learned so much doing this side of Biggles' suspension the other side will be a walk in the park.
Continue to be careful, Bruce
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Post by biggles on Feb 21, 2016 17:37:37 GMT
The other side ?? Damn, I forgot about the other side... also - the guys on the MM forum seem to suggest poly on the outside and rubber on the inside is one way to go. mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=40849 which is tempting as one of the existing bushes is in better order.
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Post by canuck on Feb 22, 2016 1:00:53 GMT
Good grief.
I was thinking all the hype about these poly bushes was rubbish and you have now confirmed it! Half rubber, half poly? Oh well I guess there is logic here somewhere. The only plus I have heard/read about poly bushes is supposed longevity versus rubber, somehow this half/half fitment defeats this thinking. FWIW I did try poly on my MGB. I got suckered by the hype. I tried red ones they squeaked, I tried black ones they were too stiff, I tried blue ones and these seem about right but I do have rubber on the upper trunnion and sway bar. A hybrid fitment that I repeated on the Riley.
To each their own I suppose.
Bruce
Simon, the other side will be very easy and straight forward.
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Post by biggles on Mar 6, 2016 14:09:00 GMT
Right - another morning in lots of layers and things have moved on a little. As you can see below, Biggles is once again (temporarily) on 4 wheels. On checking the other side I noticed something that perhaps I should have noticed before. The side I've been working on doesn't have a bump-stop-cone-thing like the other side (see below). I presume it should look like the 2nd picture and it's sort of, fallen off.. Finally, can I ask where I should expect to fit split pins? There was one at the castle nut on the tie rod and another in the hub. Nut #55 at the top didn't have one but it is a castle nut and the bottom of the track rod end is also a castle nut but didn't have one either. Should they and are there any others I missed. The picture in the manual doesn't show split pins.
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Post by 2robert4 on Mar 6, 2016 18:02:08 GMT
Hi The Bump stop Rubber is not available at the moment I think through club spares I will have a look in my garage am tomorrow for one and let you know. Any castellated nut requires a spit pin but if a later Track Rod End for example has been fitted at some point it could have a Nylock Nut. If a nut is fitted and there is a hole in the thread a split pin must be fitted or if there is no hole in the thread a self locking nut (ie Nylock or other) must be fitted this is most important as it is a safety related issue. It would be a good idea to check all the threaded items with castellated nuts to see that they have hole or that they are not blocked with the remnants of previously fitted split pins which will then require removal with a small diameter drift. Hope this is of some help NP
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Post by 2robert4 on Mar 9, 2016 9:35:14 GMT
I have had a good rummage around an can not find the bump stops I thought I had, will probably find them when looking for something else no doubt sorry for now. NP
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Post by biggles on Mar 9, 2016 13:16:49 GMT
Thanks for looking anyway
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Post by 2robert4 on Mar 12, 2016 17:00:12 GMT
Have found two used bump stops I knew they were at hand somewhere in the garage. I can let you have one my contact details are to be found in the Riley Motor Club members list my number is 2099. Regards NP
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Post by biggles on Mar 13, 2016 17:33:25 GMT
Hi robert - don't have access to that list - can you pm me?
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Post by biggles on Mar 13, 2016 17:39:22 GMT
Right all - I officially hate split pins. There were three I was missing...
The tie rod split pin is now in. I couldn't find a hole for the track rod end - but I had a new nylock nut for that, so that's working.
But the ^*&^*&^*&%ing top trunnion fulcrum bolt thing DOES NOT HAVE A HOLE IN IT. I know I didn't take a split pin out but it has a castle nut. The brand new fulcrum pin that came with my top trunnion kit does have a hole, but I didn't fit the new top trunnion as it isn't the cupped type.
I have wire brushed and poked and prodded but I can't find a hole and I really really don't want to take the top trunnion apart again. Can I fit a nylock nut here and if so, where would I get one and what size?
Frustrated..
Simon
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Post by canuck on Mar 15, 2016 13:00:33 GMT
Simon, Nice to read you are moving forward.
FWIW the manual does call up split pins,
however you say you did not remove one? do we assume someone has been there before? I am no where near my car to go have a look, but if memory serves me, is that upper pin not a tapered fit to the trunnion? If so great, even if not still great, My advice is to just torque the castellated nut to a decent value, say 55lb/ft and you should be good to go. Once torqued you could easily drill a hole for the split pin if you so desire, belt & braces sort of thing. What is the other side like?
B
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Post by biggles on Mar 15, 2016 18:38:54 GMT
I'll check the other side but yes it is a tapered fit.
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Post by biggles on Mar 19, 2016 16:12:03 GMT
More progress.. The first side is now done, though I still need to fit Nigel's bump stop and put the chrome work back. I decided to do the right thing and remove the top trunnion bolt and replace it with one that has a split pin hole. This was tricky until I found my new favourite tool. Look it even has a split pin - oh the irony! Once I had the tapered bolt out (it went 'bang' as the ball joint seperator finally loosened it) I confirmed that there isn't a hole in it. The hole is very obvious on the replacement part which came with my top trunnion kit. So now it's all fitted back together with a shiny and very obvious split pin to please the MOT man So tomorrow I'll roll it out of the garage and shift it to the other wall to start the other side. Simon
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