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Post by biggles on Jan 1, 2016 17:52:31 GMT
Now that I have such good access to the suspension and also with the benefit of Rolf's great picture, what are the perishable parts that it would be sensible to replace on the front suspension ?  Also, are there any upgrades that are sensible to do at the same time? E.g. synthetic bushes On the suspension sheet from the manual there are a number of things that sound perishable..   10 - Bush 51 - Bush - Pivot Pin Rubber 65 - Bush - Fulcrum pin rubber and track rod ends - I have spares for these. Simon |
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Post by noddy on Jan 2, 2016 9:05:29 GMT
Hi Simon,
I did mine a coupe of years ago and here would be my advice ...
Replace every bush with polyurethane bushes - forget rubber ones. I went for 'performance' ones, but they do a 'comfort' set if you wish. They will really improve the handling - with much more precision, for a very small loss of soft ride.
Also a good time to check (and replace if necessary) the top and bottom trunnions - nos.4 & 8 in the diagram. The do wear if not greased regularly.
There are another number of 'tweeks' you might consider.
1. Eyebolt Washer ... no.75 in the diagram. Use 2 of these rather than one - it changes the camber slightly on the front with makes the steering a bit sharper.
2. Move the torsion bar round one spline - this will lower the car, but not too much. Can be used in tandem with a rear suspension lowering kit.
3. Change the oil in the damper for a slightly thicker type - this will stiffen up the dampers (I have not tried this yet!).
4. Fit an anti-roll bar - I have not done this - but can make a big difference.
I have done all these changes (apart from the front damper oil) and it has really improved the ride and handling with very little sacrifice in comfort. The steering is a lot sharper and it doesn't wallow as much as the standard car.
Hope this helps,
Roger
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Post by biggles on Jan 2, 2016 9:32:24 GMT
That's exactly the sort of detail I was after - thanks Roger
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Post by canuck on Jan 2, 2016 15:10:07 GMT
Simon, You are going down the rabbit hole, (thanks Alice) but this is a good thing. I addressed the front suspension more or less as Roger has done. I used poly bushes only at the inner pivot #62. I chose to renew with rubber bushes at the upper trunnion. I did as Roger, (well he advised so I listened ) to add some 'camber'. I increased using .03125" spacer which is a tad more camber than just adding a washer thickness. This is easy to do and of course your choice. I renewed the stay bar bushes with rubber as well. As to the trunnions, check that yours are not worn. If in good shape, mine were oddly enough, I would leave them there. The new upper trunnions that I procured, (thought I would need them and buying from UK profited from carriage cost) did not have the 'cup' shape bumper stop on it. These new ones just didn't look right so there they sit on the shelf until some MM chap comes along.  Fitting new dust seals on the spindle and lower trunnion will pay back big time, #6, #12, #59. These are available as separate items. I procured my bits at ESM and am pleased with the quality. Only caveat, #62 lower pivot came with a metric (ughhh!) thread & nut but I had no choice. The bush had disintegrated, (after +50 years  ) the pivot pin had worn and damaged the pivot to oval, hence the decision to poly bush. see below; 
I advise to be careful with torsion bar removal etc. Make sure the adjuster, #83 etc. at the tail end is not jammed/rusted etc. You will need to play with this to move the torsion bar aft to free it from lower arm #57 and free from the inner pivot. If you are not going to lower the suspension as Roger did, mark the splines at #57 & #82 to ensure same height setting. Not advisable to only lower the front without doing the rear, (hence the rabbit hole comment ) FWIW do not swap torsion bars side to side. Oh, I can bore us for quite some time on suspension corrections for a budget chap I did install an anti roll bar, but will not hog this thread with detail. If you want to go there we can discuss this later. 
If your tie rod outer ends are solid and the boot/seals are not damaged just clean them up, add some grease, and re install. Tip, to remove the upper damper pin #50 from the upper trunnion it makes things easier if you split the outer tie rod end from the steering arm. You will need to do this anyway to clean and paint everything anyway. Did I mention a rabbit hole?
Press on. I like what I see, and I agree that you are going about this the right way.
Bruce
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Post by biggles on Jan 2, 2016 16:05:02 GMT
Thanks Bruce - I will read this again lots of times I expect, but may have a lie down first.
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Post by rgswisstex on Jan 2, 2016 19:54:29 GMT
Simon, I used Poly Bushings, at the front and rear suspension, including the spring pads in the rear, I got it on eBay in a complete kit. Also, if you going all the way, install new front wheel bearings.  Rolf |
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Post by canuck on Jan 2, 2016 20:36:06 GMT
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Post by rgswisstex on Jan 3, 2016 0:15:57 GMT
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Post by rgswisstex on Jan 3, 2016 0:20:17 GMT
Bruce, I had trouble with the tie bar bush, but I just kept turning the nut until I could see the split pin hole, I almost gave up, but then again I never do give up.   Rolf |
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Post by rgswisstex on Jan 3, 2016 0:34:01 GMT
If you click on where to buy on the web site you can find a dealer close to you.
Here is the address in the UK where you can get them,
Rolf
SuperPro Europe (1274.53)
Servicing Europe & UK
Home Farm, Middlezoy
Somerset UK
44 01823 690281 / 698437
Website
Email
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Post by noddy on Jan 3, 2016 7:34:12 GMT
Hi Simon,
Another modification you could try is to fit Morris Minor torsion bars.
Apparently they fit with a small modification and were a period mod that was done by the BMC comps department. However I am not aware of anyone who has done it recently - so you would be the first to try it out!
Roger
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Post by biggles on Jan 3, 2016 12:37:25 GMT
Apparently they fit with a small modification (I see)............... However I am not aware of anyone who has done it recently - so you would be the first to try it out! (Yes, I can see this providing no end of laughs) One step at a time I think.. |
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Post by canuck on Jan 3, 2016 15:27:58 GMT
Bruce, I had trouble with the tie bar bush, but I just kept turning the nut until I could see the split pin hole, I almost gave up, but then again I never do give up. Rolf Thanks Rolf, this was my point and I appreciate the confirmation. The duro reading of the poly bushes I received were much higher than the rubber hence my use of only the inner lower pivot bush. I suggest that these bush may be too stiff for the car but you are pleased so that is what is important. I sold on my 'unused' bushes to a MM chap. FWIW the car has since developed an annoying 'click' in my steering column at each 'decent' road bump. I thought it the steering column bushes but after a marathon replacement exercise the 'click' remains. Maybe steering rack wear?
Press on Simon.
B
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Post by rgswisstex on Jan 3, 2016 22:58:46 GMT
I guess I could have cut them in half, well it is done now.
Rolf
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Post by canuck on Jan 4, 2016 1:08:01 GMT
I guess I could have cut them in half,
That would defeat the purpose of the bush, no? These need to be properly sized and resilient. Let me ask a question. Does anyone know the correct 'tightness' for this nut at the end of the stay rod? Leaving it loose or over tightening will effectively change the length of the rod, hence the position of the spindle and wheel vertical axis? I am not the only one that thinks this way,
There must be an optimal position for this. Curious no?
Bruce
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Fitting new dust seals on the spindle and lower trunnion will pay back big time, #6, #12, #59. These are available as separate items. I procured my bits at ESM and am pleased with the quality. Only caveat, #62 lower pivot came with a metric (ughhh!) thread & nut but I had no choice. The bush had disintegrated, (after +50 years 
) the pivot pin had worn and damaged the pivot to oval, hence the decision to poly bush. 
